Cellar Dweller: Blended bliss

2006 Desert Wind Ruah
Merlot 45%, Cabernet Sauvignon 37.5%, Cabernet Franc 17.5%
Columbia Valley
18.00

Everyone who knows me knows that Bordeaux blends are typically my favorite wines. Indeed the most wonderful thing I’ve ever tasted, food or drink, was a 1972 Chateau Brion that melted in my mouth like butter. It was warm and rich and extremely smooth. The problem with such wines, though, is that wines like this can cost well over $600 per bottle. Not your everyday dinner blend.

There are exceptions to my tastes, of course, and I am also known to enjoy a hearty Zinfandel, a serious Syrah or certain Cabernet Sauvignons, among others. But as I mentioned a few columns back, I am a big fan of our local and regional wineries’ efforts to perfect the art of blending in recent years. Hence the wine I discuss today, the 2006 Desert Wind Ruah which is a blend of Bordeaux varietals Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (37.5%), Cabernet Franc (17.5%).

First a little about the vineyard. Desert Wind Winery is situated on 540 acres in Washington state’s Columbia Valley. Located well east of the Cascade Range, the area features a relatively extreme climate. Bordeaux varietals such as those in the Ruah require these long hours of sunlight and intense heat to properly ripen. According to the winery’s marketing materials, summer temperatures in the area often reach 110°F and winter days may be as cold as 14°F.

With an annual rainfall between seven and eight inches, the vines must be irrigated during the hot summer months. The local soil is rocky and shallow with excellent drainage.

The 2006 Ruah is a very smooth blend that both starts and finishes with fruity accents. A suggestion of plum and blackberry with slight currant notes tickles the tongue. This delightful wine is blended expertly and is medium-bodied with an effortless hint of oaky spice. Although the Ruah is a Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is notably more fruit-forward than most.

It is worth noting that this blend is somewhat prone to the effects of oxidation and experienced tasters will recognize oxidation-related changes in the character of the wine relatively soon after opening the bottle. The initial changes are pleasant as the air opens up the wine and allows its natural flavors to expand. But if left too long, the Ruah will begin to exhibit a celery-like finish which, while not ruining the wine, will disguise the very pleasant initial fruity/spicy finish.

All in all, the 2006 Desert Wind Ruah is a pleasure to experience. Many will agree that this blend should pair nicely with a large variety of dinner entrées, beyond the usual red wine/red meat unions. I am pleased to recommend this affable wine. The 2006 Desert Wind Ruah retails for about $18.