Cool wines, great food - a night out to remember

Around Australia there are numerous country show halls, usually made of corrugated iron; draughty, rattling even, cold in winter, hot in summer. Throughout the year they may see everything from animals, flowers and farm machinery displays, to wine events, B&S balls, and even gala dinners.

One such is the Red Hill's Agricultural and Horticultural Society's show hall at the Red Hill Showgrounds, in the heart of the Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, where for over eighty years the locals have been exhibiting their rural produce to an increasingly cosmopolitan audience.

However, unlike many, this hall has an active social life, due in part to its proximity to Melbourne, but largely because of the teams of dedicated locals committed to not only keeping the tradition alive, but to invigorating it with new ones, reflective of modern tastes.

The highlight of the hall's year is the annual show, held in March. But the building hosts a busy calendar of events, including MPVA's Winter Wine Fest in the June long weekend, when she is dressed up display of local wine producers and adorned with food stalls and music, through to the International Cool Climate Wine Show judging and public tasting, which culminates in the annual Awards Presentation Dinner.

Black tie is not out of place at this event, although being in the country, less formal will also do fine. Around 250 attend, and tickets usually sell out fast, for good reason - it's a very enjoyable night, of good wine, good food and good company. Those in the know will arrange their transport both to and fro with the very cheerful Chris of Red Hill Shuttle; alighting from her minibus in the warm summer evening light, one has little idea of what may lie behind the corrugated iron walls.

Two days before the hall was full of trestle tables, orderly rows of cool climate wines, and judges in white coats and clipboards, sniffing, swirling and spitting in their quest to award the trophies and medals. But a Cinderella transformation has occurred, and now she is bedecked in finery, with large round tables awaiting both the guests and fine food. The guests arrive and are served sparkling wines and canapes - as if by magic the food appears, whisked in by the team from Max's at the nearby(ish) Red Hill Estate, and all so seamless that you'd think the old girl has a modern restaurant kitchen tucked away somewhere, too.

The guests are seated to a plan devised by a genius, in which local identity and Red Hill Show Committee organiser Liz Dart must surely play a large part. You may find yourself seated with local winemakers, heads of industry, local characters, and a great mix of people - from farmers and food producers to the region's Mayor - who make up this wonderful community, all bent on having a good time. The first time I attended I did so alone, but not for one minute did I feel lonely, and I had a fabulous evening.

Show wines are placed on each table, and you can select your own preferences from the entrants. More of Max Paganoni's delectable food appears, and during the course of the evening the various winners are announced. Diners can select from over a hundred different wines, if your constitution will allow it.

This year the dinner is sponsored by Mornington BMW, Tourism Tasmania, and Peninsula Bulk Meats (responsible for the delicious beef). The producers of the Best Wine of Show will receive an exciting travel package to Tasmania, courtesy of Tourism Tasmania, including accommodation at various Federal Hotels properties and a double VisitVineyards.com Membership, plus a Tasmanian wine and food touring itinerary planned by VisitVineyards.com. In addition, one lucky person at each table will receive a double VisitVineyards.com Membership worth $198.

Eventually the evening draws to a close, and like the pumpkin carriage Chris's minibus (or your chauffeur/designated driver) appears, to whisk you and perhaps several new-found friends back to your various select accommodations around Red Hill and the Peninsula. The old girl has done it again, and the echoes of laughter and fun, good wine, good food and good times will rebound her walls for another year.