Dining at Burma Road: A rewarding voyage of discovery
The original Burma Road, circa 1937, supplied China through its "back door" during its conflict with Japan. Growing up in Burma, Charlie Sheh listened to his mother's and grandmother's stories about how they fled from invading Japanese troops along that serpentine route.
Now an owner of Gaithersburg's Burma Road, circa October 2008, Sheh, who is also known by his Burmese name Win Myint, supplies smiles to grateful fans of Burmese and Chinese food.
Sheh notes that Burmese ingredients and spices differ from Indian ones in that Burmese favors ginger, garlic, onions and tomato rather than heavy masalas. And unlike Chinese, it does not rely on stir- and deep-frying. The food is lighter and freshly prepared. Salads are popular; nine are on the menu.
Hospitality is one hallmark of a good restaurant and Burma Road's friendly, attentive staff earns high grades. A pot of hot tea and a dish of addictive boiled peanuts seasoned with soy sauce and star anise are immediately welcome.
The menu choices seem daunting, so on a first visit, we limit ourselves to Burmese selections.
Green mango salad, a refreshing, crunchy slaw of julienne green fruit, carrot and red onion enlivened with shrimp, peanuts and cilantro, gets us off to a good start.
Next, mohinga, a Burmese favorite, is a satisfying put-it-together-yourself soup akin to Vietnamese pho. The ingredients: a pot of tasty fish stock accented with ginger, lemongrass, onion and crunchy fried chickpea tidbits (identified as chickpea tofu), a bowl of rice noodles, sliced hard-boiled egg, a tiny dish of lime wedges and cilantro.
The last time I ate in a Burmese restaurant, I ignored a waiter's suggestion to order pork spiced with pickled mango. I wasn't about to make the same mistake twice. While, to my taste, pickled condiments on Indian buffets tend to overwhelm, here incorporated in the cooking, they add another vibrant note to a terrific dish.
Danbouk, available only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, is another winner. Similar to an Indian biryani, its basmati rice is flavored with curry and other spices and topped with two spiced baked chicken legs. Served on the side, sour leaf broth and a small dish of balachaung (dried shrimp with crispy onion, garlic and chili pepper) add interest.
The best comes last. Pa zun hin, succulent jumbo shrimp simmered with onion and tomato sauce, is everyone's favorite.
Peanuts again begin our meal on another day when we return to celebrate the Chinese New Year. While looking over the Chinese menu, we spy an appealing shrimp dish on another table. After asking what it is, we order the same for ours. The shrimp with mixed vegetable is heavy on the golden stir-fried shrimp and light on the veggies — no complaint.
Shredded pork with yellow leeks is perfect in itself or, if desired, imbued with chopped green chilis, thankfully served on the side. Shrimp lo mein glistens, its long noodles a traditional Chinese New Year food that signifies longevity.
In its hot metal pot, aromatic three cups chicken bathes in flavors of soy, sesame, ginger, Thai basil and rice wine. It begs to be heaped onto steamed rice. Simply sautéed with garlic, spinach makes a fine vegetable dish.
Rockfish, the jewel in the crown, swims impressively on a pool of fire engine red sweet and sour sauce dotted with peas, onion and diced carrots. The sauce is nicely balanced and the fish crisp on the outside.
The spacious restaurant, formerly Peking Eastern House, has several large round tables that accommodate families and can serve up to 120 at private functions. Check the Web site for news of special events.
Whether choosing Burmese or Chinese fare, you are in good hands at Burma Road.
Burma Road
617 South Frederick Ave., Gaithersburg
301-963-1429, fax 301-963-1426
Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m., lunch Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Style of cuisine: Burmese and Chinese
Dinner Entrees: $7.95-$14.95, whole fish market price, appetizers $3.25-$6.95
Private parties
Free Wi-Fi, free delivery within area
Credit cards: All major cards
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