2006 Hess Cabernet Sauvignon $16

Wine Pick: 2006 Hess Cabernet Sauvignon $16

I seldom write about California cabernet sauvignon. That may seem odd since that grape is the finest expression of the potential of wine growing throughout the state. While there are many great wines produced in California from just about every conceivable varietal, those made from cabernet sauvignon are most always the best. Perhaps the reason I don't write about them often enough is that there are so many of them and the fact that they are good wines is not news. But some wines, such as those from the Hess Collection Winery in the Napa Valley, are so consistent in their quality and their value pricing that one can only ignore them for so long.

For years I have considered the Hess cabernet sauvignon to be one of the best values for this varietal in California. The wines have style and class and are always priced much lower than what their quality could demand. While many wineries are now compelled to lower their prices, Hess wines are values even in the best of times.

Wines with just the Hess logo are different from the up-market Hess Collection wines, which can run to $70, are made from estate-grown fruit in Napa Valley and are meant to be the winery's best effort. Wines wearing the simple Hess label are sourced from vineyards throughout the state and are meant to be values. The grapes for today's '06 cabernet sauvignon are from sustainable vineyards in Mendocino, Lake and Napa counties. The wines even spent time in oak, including 25 percent new French barrels. Often producers that sell wines for under $20 will opt for inexpensive oak chips for flavor rather than more expensive barrel aging.

I like the soft, plush texture of the wine and the complex layers of flavors, including cherry and cassis. This is not a powerhouse but an elegant and nuanced wine that performs well above its pay grade. To find the wine contact Noble Wines at: 206 326-5274.