Finding the Best Wine Experts in Hawaii

I’ve become interested in writing a wine column, but I don’t think anyone’s interested in hiring me as a wine columnist.

Probably just as well. There’s nothing worse than someone who knows a little bit about wine but pretends to be Robert Parker. A little wine knowledge is a dangerous thing to pass off on readers.

One gorgeous night high on St. Louis Heights, I had occasion to talk wine with a fellow who’s the real McCoy, Foodland chief wine buyer Ed Treschuk.

I was pleased to learn we both agree that there are many excellent wines to be had under $20, and some very drinkable ones for under $10. The latter are the excess juices from major wineries that go unsold at the pricey label in big-harvest years and are shuffled off to marketers such as Two Buck Chuck. The secret is to know which unknown labels have that $40 grape juice inside.

Supermarkets in Honolulu have become major wine sellers in recent years. We can buy the same quality wines at Foodland, Times and Safeway that we can find in the small wine boutiques that have broken out around town. The difference is this: If I go into a wine boutique, in most cases (not all) there is somebody there who has tasted the wines, knows their qualities, knows what’s a buy for my price range, and can advise me on matches for food.

In the supermarkets I’m on my own. Low-priced wines on the lower shelves and the biggies at eye level. Some displayed by country but mainly by varietal. If you’re not a wine person, you probably buy by price and color, period. I’m told most supermarket sales are in the lower price category.

My suggestion is that the supermarkets consider having a knowledgeable wine person constantly on the floor in the liquor section. Somebody to schmooze with and help customers pick the best in a price range, help them match with food, tell them it’s sometimes exactly right to have a red with fish or a white with pork or veal.

I think they’d sell much more wine, much more wine costing more than $10, and create loyal customers. Yes, it adds to salary expense but I see it as building long-term revenue.

Wine has become a big part of the American dining experience. I’ve learned over the years with help from wine boutique owners like Lyle Fujioka that there are smashingly good bottles for $12-$20. Bottles my guests must think I bought for $50. Think Fuego and Volver and Summerland. The Argentine Malbecs, the New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs (not as grassy as the American kind) and the Tasmanian Pinot Noirs (best growing climate but also hardest wines to find in Hawaii.)

Sure, treat yourself to a biggie some time. Ed Treschuk said he thinks the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world today in Cloudy Bay. Probably $30 if you can find it here. A great deal is Fox Brook wines at Foodland. That’s a small label that uses some excess juice from California’s best vintners. You’re getting big-time wine at a no-name-label price.

I love every dinner at my house because guests usually bring us wines. Very big wines I’d probably not buy in my skinflint mode. I’ve thought of telling people they can all cancel out of my dinners and just send a bottle of fine wine as a regret.

But that’s not nice, is it?