Wine Festival 2009: Interview with Dominique Demarville of Veuve Clicquot

The Naples Daily News interviewed Dominique Demarville, the new deputy cellar master of Veuve Clicquot in Reims, France. Demarville and Jacques Péters, the oenologist and cellar master, and Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle of Casa Lapostolle of Santiago, Chile, are the vintners at “Dancing with a Dream,” hosted by Anne and Tom Wamser with Therésa and Tom Wajnert. The dinner will be prepared by chef Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene in Atlanta.

Naples Daily News: What are the main duties of an oenologist and a cellar master?

Dominique Demarville: “The cellar master of champagne is the guarantor of style and quality for the house’s wines. He will perpetuate the same consistency and build on the experience of his predecessors. At Veuve Clicquot, the cellar master does not work alone. He relies on his team of 10 oenologues who share his same passion for the wines of Champagne and of the house—this team’s work is an additional guarantee for Veuve Clicquot amateurs.”

NDN: What is the image and style of Veuve Clicquot?

DD: “For more than 200 years, the structure and the strength of Pinot Noir have been combined with the fineness and freshness of Chardonnay and the delicate addition of Pinot Meunier. It is this blend that gives Yellow Label and the vintages a sort of fruitiness and a particular softness and which endows the balance and complexity of the Veuve Clicquot Champagnes. We also rely upon reserve wines to give Yellow Label its unique style and the capacity to keep for surprisingly long times. All this contributes to the inimitable Veuve Clicquot style. As for our image, we want to believe that our brand is stylish and luxurious … thanks to our numerous innovations, our culture of design and our strong heritage.”

NDN: What does it take to make a great champagne? And how is Veuve Clicquot different?

DD: “To make a great Champagne, first and foremost, we must have the best possible grapes, and in sufficient quantity, so we take the best care thinkable of our vineyard. Veuve Clicquot sets the pace for eco-friendly methods and reasoned viticulture. Also, we probably have the largest collection of reserve wines, which some years make up to 30 percent of the Yellow Label blend. But probably what makes Veuve Clicquot remarkable is an outstanding, competent and friendly team.”

NDN: How does Veuve Clicquot compare to other high-end champagnes?

DD: “The magic of Champagne has been going on for a long time … 237 years of bettering our knowledge and making the best wines at Veuve Clicquot.”

NDN: Do you think your winery will expand outside of France?

DD: “As you know, Veuve Clicquot Champagne can only be made in the Champagne region of France.”

NDN: What will you be serving at the dinner, and how did you decide on what to serve?

DD: “The menu was elaborated with chef Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene in Atlanta especially to fit our vintages. A perfect — we hope — wine and food pairing exercise. The years we will serve are 2002, 1998, 1995, 1993, 1988 and 1979, which is the year Jacques Péters arrived at Veuve Clicquot!”

NDN: What are your personal favorites?

DD: “I am still an amateur of Pinot Noir as I have come across it many times in my professional life, in Burgundy, in Alsace and of course in Champagne. Here at Veuve Clicquot, my favorite vintage is actually the rare vintage 1988. Twenty years after its birth, this vintage offers every facet of a perfectly matured Pinot Noir.“

The following are the wine companies, vintners, chefs and hosts who will elevate the private dining experiences on Friday at the 17 Naples homes to help make dreams come true:

-- Allegrini, Verona, Italy, Marilisa Allegrini and Staglin Family Vineyard, Rutherford, Calif., Shari and Garen Staglin with chef Adam Cooke, Blackberry Farm, Walland, Tenn., hosted by Anne Welsh McNulty with Ann and Bill Bain Jr.

-- Araujo Estate Wines, Calistoga, Calif., Daphne and Bart Araujo with chef John Besh, Restaurant August, New Orleans, hosted by Connie and Tom Galloway

-- Bodga Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, Nicolás Catena and Laura Catena and Continuum, Oakville, Calif., Timothy Mondavi with chef John Tesar, Mansion Restaurant at Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas, hosted by Mosey and Don Gunther with Cheryl and Dave Copham

-- Casa Lapostolle, Santiago, Chile, Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle and Veuve Clicquot, Reims, France, Jacques Péters and Dominique Demarville with chef Linton Hopkins, Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta, hosted by Anne and Tom Wamser with Therésa and Tom Wajnert

-- Colgin Cellars, St. Helena, Calif., Ann Colgin with chef Jonathan Benno, Per Se, New York, hosted by Simone and Scott Lutgert

-- Cos d’Estournel, Saint-Estéphe, France, Jean-Guillaume Prats and HdV Wines, Napa, Calif., Larry Hyde with chef David Waltuck, Chanterelle, New York, hosted by Cynthia and Bruce Sherman

-- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée, France, Aubert de Villaine with chef Michael Mina, Michael Mina, San Francisco, hosted by Penny and Lee Anderson with Larry Andrews

-- Domaine Serene, Dayton, Ore., Grace and Ken Evenstad with chef Emeril Lagasse, Emeril’s, New Orleans, hosted by Grace and Ken Evenstad with Donna Solimene

-- Domaine Tempier, Le Castellet, France, Daniel Ravier and Dominio de Pingus, Ribera del Duero, Spain, Peter Sisseck with chef Michael White, Alto, New York, hosted by Kathleen and Francis Rooney with Linda and Jim Malone

-- Gargiulo Vineyards, Oakville, Calif., Valerie Boyd and Jeff Gargiulo with chef Bob Kinkead, Kinkead’s, Washington, D.C., hosted by Valerie Boyd and Jeff Gargiulo with Sandy and Jim Figge at the home of Michael DeGroote Sr.

-- Harlan Estate, Oakville, Calif., Deborah and Bill Harlan with chef Michael Tusk, Quince, San Francisco, hosted by Fran and Jim McGlothlin

-- Il Borro, San Giustino, Italy, Salvatore Ferragamo and Revana Family Vineyard, St. Helena, Calif., Dr. Madaiah Revana with chef Sean Brock, McCrady’s, Charleston, S.C., hosted by Judith Liegeois and John Scot Mueller with Jean and Don Ackerman

-- Il Molino di Grace, Panzano, Italy, Frank Grace and VIADER Vineyards & Winery, Deer Park, California, Delia Viader with chef Mary Ann Esposito, Ciao Italia, PBS Network, hosted by Mary Pat and Frank Hussey with Adria and Jerry Starkey

-- Peter Michael Winery, Calistoga, Calif., Sir Peter Michael with chef Norman Van Aken, Norman’s Orlando, hosted by Mary Susan and J.D. Clinton with Denise and Brian Cobb

-- Screaming Eagle, Oakville, Calif., Ali and Charles Banks with chef Mark Kiffin, The Compound, Santa Fe., N.M., hosted by Barbara and Ron Balser

-- Shafer Vineyards, Napa, Calif., Barbara and John Shafer with chef Marco Canora, Insieme, New York, hosted by Karen and Bob Scott

-- Sloan Estate, Rutherford, Calif., Karen and Stuart Sloan and Torbreck, Barossa Valley, Australia, David Powell with chef Tetsuya Wakuda, Tetsuya’s, Sydney, Australia, hosted by Martha and Jim Fligg with Barbara and John Jordan