Argentina rising star in wine world
By David Falchek 2009-3-23 15:33:11
One of the most exciting wine-producing countries is Argentina.
Where Chile was five years ago and Australia was 15 years ago, Argentina is today, producing lots of high-quality wine, even at $12 a bottle or less.
The two main things to know about Argentine wine are malbec and torrontes. Those are the two grapes on which Argentina is building its unique identity.
The red grape malbec was a key component of the stately blends of Bordeaux, France. It fell out of favor there long ago and not much remains. But malbec found a home in Argentina, where its full-bodied, smoky wines are ideal matches with any red meat, particularly those cooked over a flame.
The fragrant white grape torrontes doesn’t have a very distinguished family tree. It’s a cross between two other grapes, the white grape muscat of Alexandria and red grape mission. Muscat of Alexandria is a table grape eaten as fruit in Mediterranean areas and used to make white raisins in California. But it has also been used to make wines. You can try this torrontes parent in the rather sweet and inexpensive Alice White Lexia from Australia.
Mission doesn’t have much of a pedigree either. It’s the U.S. name of a red grape that is used in California bulk wines and sold to home winemakers. Let’s not hold those roots against torrontes. Occasionally, questionable parents generate outstanding children. Such is the case with this offspring.
I tried entry-level malbecs and torrontes from two well-regarded producers, Crios from Susana Balbo, and Luigi Bosca Finca de la Linda. All are available in the state’s so-called “specialty” stores.
The smells of Crios 2008 Torrontes, Cafayatte, are tropical, grapey, even piney and call to mind Lemon Pledge furniture polish. The flavors are of grapefruit, lemon oil and pineapple. The wine is overflowing with character. I like it, but some people I tried it with got that furniture polish association and couldn’t let go. Those with misgivings could try the outstanding, and more refined, 2007 Crios, which is still available. $13. HHH 1/2
Bosca Finca de la Linda 2007 Torrontes smells like white flower, vanilla, lemon and slate, and tastes like light Sprite-y citrus. Mouthwatering acids and a nice finish make this a good food wine. I see this graceful wine with Thai food. $11. HHHH 1/2
Crios 2007 Malbec, Mendoza, is similarly rich in smells with plum, blackberry and a hint of menthol. It delivers up-front flavors akin to fruit preserves. This wine is nice and jammy, but would benefit from a bigger finish. $13. HHH 1/2
Finca de la Linda 2006 Malbec, comes from Luyan de Cuyo, a portion of Mendoza where growers comply with rules on vine age, yields and farming practices designed to contribute to, theoretically, better wine. Very earthy, the wine has tobacco, forest floor, pepper and root beer character on the palate. A bit of an oddball, but interesting. $11. HHHH
Considering these two Argentine lables, the Crios wines are big, generous, fruitful wines that most people would find likeable and accessible — perfect for parties. By comparison, Bosca’s Finca de la Linda is more of a wallflower, subtle, but with more structure, balance and character.
Expect to see more Argentine wines in 2009. Don’t hesitate to try even the least expensive. You’ll be surprised at how good they are.
Where Chile was five years ago and Australia was 15 years ago, Argentina is today, producing lots of high-quality wine, even at $12 a bottle or less.
The two main things to know about Argentine wine are malbec and torrontes. Those are the two grapes on which Argentina is building its unique identity.
The red grape malbec was a key component of the stately blends of Bordeaux, France. It fell out of favor there long ago and not much remains. But malbec found a home in Argentina, where its full-bodied, smoky wines are ideal matches with any red meat, particularly those cooked over a flame.
The fragrant white grape torrontes doesn’t have a very distinguished family tree. It’s a cross between two other grapes, the white grape muscat of Alexandria and red grape mission. Muscat of Alexandria is a table grape eaten as fruit in Mediterranean areas and used to make white raisins in California. But it has also been used to make wines. You can try this torrontes parent in the rather sweet and inexpensive Alice White Lexia from Australia.
Mission doesn’t have much of a pedigree either. It’s the U.S. name of a red grape that is used in California bulk wines and sold to home winemakers. Let’s not hold those roots against torrontes. Occasionally, questionable parents generate outstanding children. Such is the case with this offspring.
I tried entry-level malbecs and torrontes from two well-regarded producers, Crios from Susana Balbo, and Luigi Bosca Finca de la Linda. All are available in the state’s so-called “specialty” stores.
The smells of Crios 2008 Torrontes, Cafayatte, are tropical, grapey, even piney and call to mind Lemon Pledge furniture polish. The flavors are of grapefruit, lemon oil and pineapple. The wine is overflowing with character. I like it, but some people I tried it with got that furniture polish association and couldn’t let go. Those with misgivings could try the outstanding, and more refined, 2007 Crios, which is still available. $13. HHH 1/2
Bosca Finca de la Linda 2007 Torrontes smells like white flower, vanilla, lemon and slate, and tastes like light Sprite-y citrus. Mouthwatering acids and a nice finish make this a good food wine. I see this graceful wine with Thai food. $11. HHHH 1/2
Crios 2007 Malbec, Mendoza, is similarly rich in smells with plum, blackberry and a hint of menthol. It delivers up-front flavors akin to fruit preserves. This wine is nice and jammy, but would benefit from a bigger finish. $13. HHH 1/2
Finca de la Linda 2006 Malbec, comes from Luyan de Cuyo, a portion of Mendoza where growers comply with rules on vine age, yields and farming practices designed to contribute to, theoretically, better wine. Very earthy, the wine has tobacco, forest floor, pepper and root beer character on the palate. A bit of an oddball, but interesting. $11. HHHH
Considering these two Argentine lables, the Crios wines are big, generous, fruitful wines that most people would find likeable and accessible — perfect for parties. By comparison, Bosca’s Finca de la Linda is more of a wallflower, subtle, but with more structure, balance and character.
Expect to see more Argentine wines in 2009. Don’t hesitate to try even the least expensive. You’ll be surprised at how good they are.
From thetimes-tribune