Restaurant review: Roy's

Given the vast ethnic pedigrees that shaped the culture of Hawaii, it's no wonder that the festive amalgam of foods associated with the islands is often referred to as the original fusion cuisine.

Those exotic origins are well-represented at Roy's, the Plano outpost of chef Roy Yamaguchi's ever-expanding empire, where the flavors of Polynesia, Japan and China are tumbled effortlessly with classic European culinary technique. But while the lineage is indisputably Hawaiian, don't expect the kitschy trappings of grass skirts and hula girls – and scrub your mind of any thoughts of Spam and poi. Roy's takes the high road, both in the sophisticated menu offerings and the upscale, understated setting in which they're served.

Though Roy's is a chain, with nearly three dozen locations worldwide, Mr. Yamaguchi gives his local chefs quite a bit of freedom. The Plano menu is dominated by the creations of chef-partner Cristobal Montes, supplemented by a selection of "Roy's classics," such as blackened ahi tuna, macadamia nut-crusted mahi-mahi and crunchy lobster pot stickers.

We began with the yellowfin "poketini," a spiffed-up version of the Hawaiian classic poke (chunks of raw tuna seasoned with seaweed and roasted kukui nuts, among other things). Roy's version was piled high in a tall martini glass and dressed with wasabi aioli, diced avocado and tiny, bright orange flying fish roe. The fish was fresh and firm, the seasoning masterful and the presentation playful, transforming the island comfort food into a chic suburban starter.

There's also a brief section of sushi rolls with selections ranging from the ubiquitous spicy tuna roll to a tricked-out California roll made with wasabi lobster salad in place of crab. We were a little skeptical that the Kobe-beef-wrapped Lakanilau roll might not offer enough bang for its 17 bucks, but the thin ribbon of barely seared meat added an extra measure of complexity to the already laudable crab, asparagus and avocado roll that left us contemplating a second order.

According to our breathlessly enthusiastic waiter, one of the most popular entrees is Roy's Classic Trio, a sampler of hibachi-grilled salmon, blackened island ahi and Hawaiian-style misoyaki butterfish. Each fish is available separately on the menu, but the trio lines them up on one long, rectangular tray, each petite portion resting in its own delicate sauce. Both the salmon in its snappy citrus ponzu sauce and the ahi with its decadent soy-mustard beurre blanc were worthy choices, thanks to pristine fish fillets and a deft touch with saucing. But though they were perfectly enjoyable, we would have traded both of them for a few more bites of the butterfish. The rich, somewhat oily textured fish was lush and tender. After being marinated in a sake-miso concoction and grilled, it melted in the mouth like, well, butter. An ethereal ginger-wasabi infusion further caressed the taste buds and seduced the senses.

Though seafood predominates, red-meat eaters have options as well. The coriander- and fennel-crusted filet mignon pleased this adventurous carnivore with its heady spice blend and velvet-textured chew. A hearty brandy-laced cherry demi-glace added yet another layer of flavor, though it threatened to overpower the slightly more subtle charms of the steak. Still, it won points for chutzpah.

When it's time for dessert, don't be fooled: The signature melting hot chocolate soufflé is not the airy egg-based classic you might expect but rather Roy's version of the seemingly inescapable molten chocolate cake. The highlight of another house specialty, the pineapple upside-down cake, was the scoop of house-made coconut ice cream that came on the side. The cake itself was nicely dense and not too sweet, but it didn't seem worth its 20-minute cook time. We preferred the kaffir lime pie, a fragrant, almost floral confection that dissolved in the mouth like a sweet whisper.

The wine list is varied and far-reaching, though it's arguable that such a seafood-centric menu merits the number of hearty reds in the cellar. Our waiter was quick with recommendations for both our drinks and our dinner, though his fervor – and his hard-to-understand machine-gun delivery – grew a tad exhausting as the evening wore on. Still, it's hard to fault him his enthusiasm: After more than five years, it's still easy to get excited about Roy's.

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