Asian buffets: basic to bountiful

The recession has turned us into a nation of value shoppers, and that extends to our dining decisions. To the mark-down bin of early bird specials, pre-theater menus and half-off wine nights you're perusing, add an option you may have overlooked: the Asian buffet.

After eating at four Miami-Dade buffets in two weeks, I'm here to report that the self-service, all-you-can-eat experience can be every bit as utilitarian as you probably imagine. But it also can be surprisingly pleasant, even elegant. As with so much else in life, you get what you pay for at Asian buffets.

CHINA BUFFET II

Just south of Eighth Street and about a dozen blocks east of the Palmetto, China II is big, bright, busy and basic. Besides the expected Chinese standards (sesame chicken, beef with broccoli, lo mein, etc.), there's a neighborhood-appropriate Latin selection -- moist Cuban-style roast pork, fried sweet plantains, flan -- that I liked better.

•  China Buffet II, 1032 SW 67th Ave., Miami; lunch $5.95 weekdays, $6.75 weekends; dinner $7.95; kids $3.50-$4.25; 305-266-3322.

JUMBO BUFFET

Also on the low end of the price range but with a more upscale atmosphere, Jumbo Buffet has a charming if incongruous hacienda look -- a probable legacy of the El Novillo steak house that preceded it in this large, free-standing North Bay Village space.

Other than a tough spring roll and some overcooked vegetables, we had no complaints about the Asian dishes. Jumbo also has the largest selection of Western food we encountered, including roast beef, salmon, spaghetti and meatballs and pizza. Beer (domestic $2.70, imports $3.51) and wine ($4) are also on offer.

• Jumbo Buffet, 1335 NE 79th St. Cswy., North Bay Village; lunch $7.95 weekdays, $8.99 weekends; dinner $11.25 weekdays, $12.95 weekends; kids $4.50-$6.50; 305-757-1755.

EMERALD COAST

From the waterfall-splashed turtle pond at the entrance to the pleasantly low lighting and attentive table bussing in the dining area, Emerald Coast is a class act. The hot Asian entrees, which include roast duck, are replenished frequently, minimizing steam-table fatigue. (French fries were the only outlier we saw.)

Where the lower-priced buffets had a smattering of sushi, we counted 16 varieties here and spotted sushi chefs on duty. An impressive cold seafood display complete with stone crabs and a prime-rib carving station are big draws at dinner.

And save room for dessert: There were two dozen choices the night we dined, from tiramisu to black forest cake, plus eight ice creams and a chocolate fountain with strawberries for dipping. Imported beer is $3.75, wine $3.95, cocktails $4.95-$5.95.

• Emerald Coast, 16850 Collins Ave., Sunny Isles Beach; lunch $7.99 weekdays, $11.99 weekends; dinner $19.99; kids $3-$10; 305-787-1530.

KYOJIN

Located in a strip mall across South Dixie Highway from South Miami Hospital, Kyojin is the place I'm most likely to return. The food selection and quality are comparable to Emerald Coast, with fewer desserts but lots more sushi and sashimi (a platoon of sushi chefs turns it out while you watch). You can have pork, chicken, steak or squid cooked to order at the hibachi station. And the crab rangoon appetizers were ''as good as the ones at the Mandarin,'' according to the girlfriend with whom I had lunch.

What would really bring me back, though, is the atmosphere. With its dark woods, Japanese wall hangings and well-space tables, Kyojin achieves something close to serenity -- a real feat in a buffet setting. The $5 Asian pear saketini didn't hurt, either.

• Kyojin Japanese Buffet, 6212 S. Dixie Hwy., South Miami: lunch $9.95 weekdays, $11.95 weekends; dinner $16.95 weekdays, $19.95 weekends; kids $6.95-$8.95; 305-722-1888.

TIPS ON TIPPING

The Emily Post Institute considers 10 percent an appropriate gratuity at a buffet, where drink orders and table-bussing are the extent of the service. But when you consider that the staff is likely paid minimum wage or less and your tab is a bargain, 15 percent seems fairer to us.