Glass or bottle, try organic wine when dining out

I discovered a sulfur allergy in my teens and seldom have the pleasure of enjoying a glass of wine without a reaction. Organic wines, of which just a few years ago there were precious few available, are of great value because U.S. organic certification laws limit sulfites (some are naturally-occurring in grape) to 20 parts per million, whereas conventional wines contain about 300 parts per million.

Organic means that grapes are — from start-to-finish — grown and processed without the use of dangerous soil and water-contaminating pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides, and the final product lacks added sulfite preservatives. Drinking organic also eliminates risk of consuming minute quantities of chemical residues that may make their way into final product, because grapes are heavily sprayed even by conventional agricultural standards.

Many wineries today label as "certified organic," "biodynamic," "practicing organic," or are "sustainable," i.e., engaging in practices that are protective of natural resources. These various designations reflect the fact that organic and eco-friendly strategies and practices vary from vintner to vintner. The following Green Quick Fixes will help you approach labels and locate some readily-available organic varieties at area restaurants.

Deciphering organic

Organic certification is a process (California's procedures can take three years) and may not yet be complete for some that do practice. It's also cost-prohibitive for some wineries, and I am told that is a common predicament amongst vintners of more newly-established regions, such as Argentina and Chile.

If you ask an educated wine merchant, such as Beverly Wine and Beer Company or Salem Wine Imports, they can point you to some great, low-cost labels that have a passion for organic, but a purse that is more reflective of our difficult economic times.

Wines may be 95 percent, 100 percent, or 70 percet organic, so be sure to read labels. The difference with biodynamic wine is that it's organic and a little esoteric. It's got something to do with being in-tune with the land's needs, which sounds almost biblical to me.

A French winemaker, Nicolas Joly of La Coulée de Serrant, is said to be the founder of the biodynamic movement and perhaps his book, "Biodynamic Wine, Demystified" can better explain.

What I can attest to is that Emiliana Coyam, a biodynamic Chilean red varietal composed of four grapes, nearly half Syrah, is magic in a glass and I have zero allergic reaction when drinking it.

Where to find

Natural food and organic markets have private labeling and distribution deals with certain organic vintners. Many wine shops also carry special sections of organic and biodynamic wines — some whites may even be in the fridge and reds in savvy climate-controlled wine rooms. However, numerous area restaurants gloriously list organic labels and we can all try a glass when dining out!

In Hamilton, try the Black Cow's Ladybug Chardonnay at $10 a glass, or when in Salem, Finz sells Torrontes, a white Argentine varietal, for $7.99 per glass and Seaglass Sauvignon Blanc for $28 by the bottle. Joe's American sells glasses of Parducci Pinot Noir for $8 and Beverly's revamped Soma is adding an organic chardonnay for $8-$9 per glass. And for $13/glass, or $50 for the bottle, indulge in the seductive Coyam at Indigo, also in Hamilton.

For about $30 per bottle, Salem's Lyceum Bar & Grill carries the smooth Girasole Pinot Noir and Lolonis Cabernet (which employs ladybugs, rather than chemicals, for pest management). Also, ask for Michel Delhommeau's Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet at Legal Seafoods and the organic selections at Café Zabaglione in Ipswich or Chianti in Beverly. Sample Frey, Our Daily Red, and Organic Wine Works at Beverly's Organic Garden.