Wine of the Week – MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2007 - $15

 I love Pinot Noir. I hate the fact that it’s hard to find a good one for under $20.

One of the problems is that according to California law, a wine can be labeled varietally (by the name of its grape) as long as it contains at least 75% of that grape variety. Obviously, if you add 25% of a different grape, you materially change the taste and texture of a wine as delicate as a Pinot Noir.

Because Pinot Noir is an expensive grape to grow, a lot of less expensive “pinots” are actually 25% syrah. This will make the resulting wine more full bodied and concentrated than a Pinot Noir should be. Many people like this; unfortunately, I'm not among them.

While the MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2007 is not a truly ethereal wine, it does have the lightness of palate and texture I look for in wines from this grape. That’s why I’ve selected it as my wine of the week. It’s pretty easy to find and very consistent. It’s also under $20 just about everywhere.

For $15 you’ll have to go to Garnet Wine, 929 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10065; 212-772-3211 www.garnetwine.com or Astor Wine, 399 Lafayette St at East 4th St, New York, NY 10003; 212-674-7500 www.astorwines.com

The wine shows lovely flavors of cherry, cranberry and brown spice. It’s got that all-important earthy quality I look for in Pinot Noir. Coming in at just under 14% ABV, it’s fairly light and elegant on the palate. Oak is used judiciously with mostly light toast so the fruit components are not overpowered by the wood. It drinks well alone, and pairs well with grilled meats and fish.

MacMurray Ranch is located in the heart of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. The ranch was owned for 50 years by the late actor Fred MacMurray of My Three Sons. It was sold to E&J Gallo after his death.