Try some Israeli wines for Easter

Musing about interesting wines to be enjoyed during the upcoming Easter celebration, I could not help but consider some of the interesting bottles coming out of Israel. For many people, their only experience with Israeli wines is based on a chance encounter with a really sweet mass market kosher wine. Mogen David and Manischewitz Concord grape wines come to mind, both candy sweet with the consistency of pancake syrup.

Fortunately for lovers of good wine, the winescape in Israel is ripe with excellent small producers in a variety of regions. Grape culture and winemaking there date back to biblical times, but the Islamic conquest of the Middle East in the 7th century AD essentially ended the wine industry in the region and most indigenous grapes were destroyed. A brief viticultural revival took place during the Crusades (1100-1300 AD), only to succumb once again to Islamic invasion. Then, in the late 19th century, Baron Edmond de Rothschild, owner of the Chateau Lafite-Rothschild in France, brought European grape varieties and winemaking techniques. In 1882, he helped establish Carmel Winery there, still one of Israel’s largest to this day. The 1980s saw a great influx of French, Australian and Californian winemaking talent. In 1989 Israel’s first true boutique winery, Margalit, was established. This led the way to an explosion of small producers, today totaling more than 100.

The principal grape varieties planted in Israel are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, but there are also substantial amounts of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat Canelli, Syrah, Viognier and even Zinfandel. There are six major growing regions in the country: Galil, Judean Hills, Shimshon, Negev, Sharon Plain and the Golan Heights. These regions represent a wide range of microclimates, soil types and topography. The potential for a multitude of wines of great distinction is high. While much activity used to be focused on kosher wines, now only 15% of the production is used for sacramental purposes.

While the most interesting boutique wines from Israel are still somewhat difficult to find in US retail stores, there are some excellent sources on line. Some wineries of note include the aforementioned Margalit, Yatir, Ella Valley, Tzora Vineyards, Clos de Gat, Somek, Rimon, Golan Heights Winery and Domaine de Castel