Wine, etc.: The right glassware makes all the difference in the wines

We first met Georg Riedel about 20 years ago, when he was introducing the United States to the concept that glassware for wine can be as important as the wine selection. Accustomed to suspicious claims by wine gadget salespeople, we were initially skeptical of Riedel's claims that his varietal-specific glasses would enhance the wine through the shape and design of his stemware.

However, we were convinced of the validity of his thesis after comparing a few sips of two different wines from a standard commercial/restaurant wine glass and Riedel's product.

Riedel was back in the area recently to demonstrate his new line of Vitus machine-made lead crystal glasses that retail for about $70 per stem. Introducing himself to a wine seminar group, he said he was there to "complicate your wine life" and then explained that the "complexity of wine is wasted in the wrong glass."

Most wine consumers routinely use a generic wine glass to drink wine. Using the Riedel glasses correctly - matching the grape variety to the appropriate glass - was an eye-opening experience for those in attendance. Riedel explained the design elements of size, rim diameter and shape come together to create Riedel glassware.

Riedel first presented the group with the Vitus #403/15 glass, which is designed to serve sauvignon blanc. The 2007 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($18) was exquisite in the Riedel glass, with all of the classic harmonious New Zealand sauvignon blanc elements of green grass, gooseberry and a dry finish that you should expect. Tasted out of a generic glass the nose disappeared, and the fruit turned flabby and cloying.

We then tried the Vitus #403/97 with the 2006 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko Vineyard Carneros ($25). The Riedel glass highlighted the fruit, yeast and toasty oak in the nose and creamy baked apple pie flavors. Poured into the sauvignon blanc glass, thetoasted oak disappeared and the fruit and complexity waned. Riedel commented that the very expensive French oak barrels used to age this wine had been wasted in the wrong glassware.

The 2006 Ponzi Pinot Noir Willamette Valley ($38) was served in Vitus #403/7. The Ponzi was delightful in the Riedel glass, with a very balanced cherry fruit flavor and a nice mild tannic finish to complement food. Tried in the chardonnay glass, the fruit was gone and the tannins dominated in an unpleasant manner.

The final Riedel glass of the evening was the Vitus #403/0 designed to showcase cabernet sauvignon. A Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap Vineyard Napa Valley ($90) exhibited wonderful fruit, eucalyptus and chocolate in the nose with delicious chocolate, cherry flavors in the mouth. This was a very complex, harmonious and pleasing wine that you would expect from this prestigious vineyard and producer. Tasted in the pinot noir glass, the nose was muted and the tannins came out in an off-putting manner.

Once again, experiencing the Riedel difference in glassware reaffirmed that premium wines deserve the opportunity to express themselves in the best possible manner, and that Riedel's stemware is the best friend a wine can have, aside from an appreciative taster.

The Web site is www.riedel.com.

Patz and Hall
We recently had the opportunity to try some of Patz and Hall's new offerings and were especially impressed with the following:

Patz and Hall Chardonnay Carneros Hudson Vineyard 2007 ($55). From an especially cool section of Carneros, the grapes develop complex flavors without losing acidity. Thanks to 100 percent malolactic fermentation in barrel and being aged in 40 percent French new oak barrels, this fine wine has a lovely pear nose and flavors with a hint of citrus and spice. Reminds us of a good quality Meursault from Burgundy. Drink now or hold for five to seven years for a more complex aged experience.

Patz and Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Jenkins Ranch 2007 ($55). From a very low-yield vineyard of about 1.5 tons per acre. Also given 100 percent malolactic fermentation in barrel and aged in 40 percent French new oak barrels. This is already a very expressive wine with abundant, creamy, black cherry flavors and nice spice notes. Although nice now, this wine will mature for at least four to six years.

Wine picks
Columbia Crest Reserve Merlot 2005 ($25). This is one of the best merlots you will find at this price. Blended with a bit of cabernet franc, it shows off great dark berry aromas and blackberry flavors with a touch of pepper.

Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Mourvedre 2007 ($16). We've always loved this wine, but the 2007 exceeds all expectations. Using Contra Costa grapes from low-yielding vines, Cline creates a delicious, plum-accented wine with chocolate and soft tannins.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($11). There aren't many good cabernets selling at such a low price. This one is blended with cabernet franc, merlot and syrah just to give it some dimension. Lots of luscious cherry flavors and a dose of chocolate on the finish.