Don't discount the big guy, Gallo proves

The Hired Belly is always amused when people take shots at the big guys -- like Gallo, still all too easily dismissed as the eternal, quintessential big brand producer.

Even for the second time, a visit to Gallo's Frei Ranch operation proved to be an extraordinary experience. Imagine a crush pad that delivers the grapes to a radial array of presses and myriad tanks. Or a cellar with capacity for a mind-blowing 60,000 barrels.

In the vineyard, the still family-run business maintains Julio Gallo's philosophy of retaining a natural balance by not planting half the land, which is retained in its original state. Ponds that collect rainwater for irrigation are habitats for species often put at risk by such massive vineyard development; while, on high, resident hawks keep the rodent population in check. The winery even somehow moved a line of 200-year-old giant redwoods to accommodate a recent expansion.

Few wineries have managed to reinvent themselves on a scale such as this, which explains why sitting down to a tasting of Gallo wines across the brand spectrum can be very revealing. Forget you ever heard about "Hearty Burgundy," the new Gallo is all about a drive for quality -- and value in the bottle.

True to its history, however, Gallo's budget beginnings are recalled by the Gallo Family Vineyards wines. Made on a grand scale even by Gallo standards, these consistently represent good value at the entry level. The moderately oaked, quite buttery Chard '08 won't disappoint with a Tuesday night chicken; although, unless you can find the 750-millilitre bottle at a private wine store, you'll have to buy the 1.5 litre at BCLS for $16.99. For $9.99 at BCLS, you won't go wrong with the in-your-face, lifted fruit style of the '07 Cab Sauv, though we weren't as keen on the current vintage of Sauvignon Blanc as in previous years.

The Aussies perfected the art of the truck blend (shipping grapes across great distances) before focusing more on regionality. Likewise, Gallo has moved beyond the "California" label, shaping its 19 regional vineyards to more closely reflect specific brands.

Too bad. You'll have to head to Alberta to taste Gallo Two Rock Sonoma Coast Chardonnay '07. This suitably nicknamed "euro-style" wine heads in a very different direction of more typical California chards, sporting a leaner, more food-friendly profile. All it needs is a screwcap . . .

While you can find the well-priced and full-fruited, cassis and anise-toned Bridlewood Syrah at BCLS ($16.99), you'll have wait a while while the board deliberates on whether to carry the complex, textured and citrus-toned Bridlewood Viognier Reserve.

Drop by dazzling Everything Wine to find some of the mid-range wines -- including the spicy, complex, black-fruited and mocha-toned (and relatively well-priced) Frei Brothers Alexander Valley Cab Sauv ($27.99).

One more that might just surprise the growing ranks of Riesling drinkers: the quietly petrol-topped, off-dry, stone-fruited and slightly mineral Mirassou Riesling '07. Widely available deal at BCLS $13.99. And it's in screwcap; significant, in that Gallo, among many U.S. producers, has been cautious to move away from cork.