Wine: For an everyday cab, think inside the box

Those who laugh at the notion of buying everyday wine in a box may be showing their age.

"The younger generation is not encumbered by traditions," said one member of my tasting group. "They are willing to try something new."

My group compared five boxed cabernet sauvignon wines that came in a box, and as one taster said, "we have had far worse flights." All came in a three-liter box except for the Black Oak, which was a 1.5 liter box. Three liters is the equivalent of four bottles.

We compared five boxes, all of which will keep in a refrigerator for three to six weeks. The results follow.

» 2007 Black Box California Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.99.
We discovered scents of dark fruit, bay leaves, cocoa, tobacco and creme brulee. This wine had pretty flavors with firm, not overwhelming tannins. This was our first choice.

» 2006 BOHO Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, $19.99.
The BOHO had an aroma of dusty black cherries, green weedy grass and fresh green peppers. On the tongue, we tasted red cherries, raspberries, grassy and green pepper flavors with a hint of chocolate plus dry, dusty tannins. This wine finished second in our blind tasting.

» 2007 Bota Box California Cabernet Sauvignon, $18.99.
We found an aroma of black cherries, cream soda, dried figs and Tootsie Roll fudge. All of the characteristics of the nose carried over to the palate. This very dry wine ranked third in our tasting.

» 2006 Four California Cabernet Sauvignon, $44.99.
The bouquet offered scents of brambly black fruit, dark cherries, butter, anise and eucalyptus. Flavors included dark fruit, mocha and tea leaves. This was a rich, mouth-filling wine - served in a tube, not in a box.

» 2007 Black Oak California Cabernet Sauvignon, $14.99 (1.5L).
Aromas included red plums, red fruit and hints of chocolate. The palate mirrored the aroma, with a nice chewy texture. If you keep a boxed wine in a warm place, it can go bad like any other wine, which is what may have happened to our first box. The second box tried later was very nice.

SURFING THE WINE SHELVES:

» 2005 Black Opal Cabernet Sauvignon, $8.
Black currants, mint and spice showed in the nose of this wine from South Eastern Australia. In the mouth, the mint faded into cherry flavors with chocolate and oak and a soft finish.

» 2007 Mandolin Monterey Chardonnay, $10.
Aromas of lime, pineapple and a hint of butterscotch met the nose. In the mouth, notes of lime and minerals mingled with a suggestion of tropical fruits ending with a tingling crispness.

» 2004 Valley of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon, $20.
Pronounced aromas of black currant, coffee and dark chocolate led to lush flavors of black currants and black cherries, inviting another sip. This Sonoma wine was lush with soft tannins and a smooth finish.

» 2006 Hey Mambo California White Blend, $12.
This wine bottle had an unusual cap that was more like a plug than either a screw cap or a cork. When poured, aromas of wood, matchsticks with a hint of orange and floral notes wafted from the glass. A blend of sauvignon blanc, viognier, muscat, canelli and chenin blanc, this wine satisfied the taste buds with honey, Meyer lemon and a touch of grapefruit.

» 2005 Tin Roof Cabernet Sauvignon, $12.99.
Aromas of black currant, cedar and black berries were followed by flavors of cherry, blackberry, black currant and juniper with smoky accents in this California wine. It had soft tannins, making it easy to sip with soft cheeses or to match with hearty stews.

» 2006 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Syrah, $24.
This wine held earthy aromas of pepper and herbs mixed with black cherry. It was full-bodied with bold fruit flavors of dark berries and spice with soft tannins.

Contact Frank Sutherland at fsutherland@gmail.com. Frank, former editor of The Tennessean, has a wine-tasting panel that includes representatives from five wine distributors in Nashville, a wine collector, a sommelier and food writer Thayer Wine. The column appears Mondays. Prices may vary by region.

SURFING THE WINE SHELVES:

» 2005 Black Opal Cabernet Sauvignon, $8.
Black currants, mint and spice showed in the nose of this wine from South Eastern Australia. In the mouth, the mint faded into cherry flavors with chocolate and oak and a soft finish.

» 2007 Mandolin Monterey Chardonnay, $10.
Aromas of lime, pineapple and a hint of butterscotch met the nose. In the mouth, notes of lime and minerals mingled with a suggestion of tropical fruits ending with a tingling crispness.

» 2004 Valley of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon, $20.
Pronounced aromas of black currant, coffee and dark chocolate led to lush flavors of black currants and black cherries, inviting another sip. This Sonoma wine was lush with soft tannins and a smooth finish.

» 2006 Hey Mambo California White Blend, $12.
This wine bottle had an unusual cap that was more like a plug than either a screw cap or a cork. When poured, aromas of wood, matchsticks with a hint of orange and floral notes wafted from the glass. A blend of sauvignon blanc, viognier, muscat, canelli and chenin blanc, this wine satisfied the taste buds with honey, Meyer lemon and a touch of grapefruit.

» 2005 Tin Roof Cabernet Sauvignon, $12.99.
Aromas of black currant, cedar and black berries were followed by flavors of cherry, blackberry, black currant and juniper with smoky accents in this California wine. It had soft tannins, making it easy to sip with soft cheeses or to match with hearty stews.

» 2006 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Syrah, $24.
This wine held earthy aromas of pepper and herbs mixed with black cherry. It was full-bodied with bold fruit flavors of dark berries and spice with soft tannins.