Uncorked: An unusual setting for a fine wine

I have tasted wine in many locales over the years. At La Tour d'Argent overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame, sitting on a log in the middle of Napa vineyards, and in multiple tasting rooms where one bellies up to the bar to sip an array of wines that become less distinguishable with each subsequent pour.

Swanson Vineyards in Napa has taken wine tasting up a notch. At Swanson, tasting occurs in the salon.

Salon is French for parlor. Tastings are presided over by a salonnier. A salonnier traditionally presides over a gathering of fashionable people with a common interest.

It is the salon that forms the core of Swanson. The architecture looks straight out of the South of France. Exterior walls are terra cotta colored stucco, and faded blue shutters adorn the windows. Flowers are everywhere. Aromas of rose and lavender perfume the air, thanks to the gardening skills of the mistress of Swanson, Elizabeth Pipes Swanson, wife of the founder.

One does not merely taste at Swanson but rather attends an intimate soir閑. The experience excites from the time of greeting by the salonnier serving chilled glasses of the family's syrah rosato until the last custom-made chocolate is offered. Such a gathering could never occur in a parlor.

Wooden floors anchor the Swanson salon. Bright orange walls soar to an apex from which a multi-tiered chandelier hangs. The family commissioned local artist Ira Yaeger to paint enormous na飗e paintings of peasants that adorn the walls of the salon. Yaeger's paintings add whimsy to the overall ambience of continental furnishings and d閏or.

Swanson wines are outstanding. A good thing, because sipping them jolted me back to reality in this idyllic setting. A maximum of eight people can be accommodated at a tasting were cheeses, fruit, caviar and custom-made chocolates are served with nationally distributed Swanson wines and wines available only at the winery.

It is necessary to make reservations well in advance, because thundering hordes cannot be entertained in the salon. Tastings are offered for a fee from Wednesday through Sunday and can be arranged by calling 707-967-3500. Though the tastings are fancy-schmancy, Swanson says, "All palates and open minds are welcomed equally."

W. Clarke Swanson, a descendent of the Swanson frozen food family, owns this piece of heaven on earth. Before founding his family winery in 1985, Swanson was a successful banker and a media mogul with interest in radio, cable television and newspapers. His wife Elizabeth, the daughter of a Cuban mother and fifth-generation New Orleanean father, grew up in the Crescent City. Her family describes her as the heart and soul of Swanson Vineyards, "the dreammaker, tastemaker, opinion-maker, and keeper of the most special fairy dust."

Swanson produces a plethora of award-winning wines from all varietals. Wines receive consistently high ratings from critics and wine publications. Winemaker Chris Phelps is especially well known for his merlot. He spent an apprenticeship at Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux known for its costly merlot-based wines.

If you can't taste these wines in the salon at Swanson, invite some stimulating friends to enjoy them with you in your salon.

Swanson Oakville Estate Napa Merlot 2004. $30.25 at Tyson Art and Frame in Golden Springs. A big merlot with a bold dark berry nose. Great structure but smooth and approachable.

Swanson Pinot Grigio 2006. $21.50 at Tyson Art and Frame. European style dry pinot grigio. Spends no time in oak. Clean and crisp with citrus overtones. Pleasant with lighter summer fare.

Swanson Alexis 2004 Oakville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. In the $75 range at the winery, but expect slightly higher prices in Alabama. Your favorite wine merchant should be able to secure by special order.

A proprietary blend of 94 percent cabernet and 6 percent merlot. Made from premium grapes from premium vineyards. Did I mention Opus 1 and Silver Oak are Swanson's neighbors?

A spectacular bold, concentrated red. Exhibiting dark fruit aromas mingled with leather and Starbuck aromas. Fruit driven and approachable. Cries out for a slab of beef.

Minuit Black Muscat. $65 at the winery. Minuit (mih-nwee), French for midnight, is a delicious, unctuous fortified port style wine with alcohol by volume of 17 percent making it virtually unobtainable in Alabama. This is about the best thing since sliced bread. Look for this wine in larger metropolitan areas in other states.