Lake County, Off-The-Beaten-Track California Wine Touring

Lake County is a relatively unfamiliar wine growing region in Northern California, even to many locals. Bordered by the famous wine regions of Napa (and Mt. St. Helena) directly south, Sonoma to the southwest, and Mendocino to the west, Lake County today produces a quite a bit of vinifera in its own right. Known mostly for Clear Lake, 1,326 feet above sea level - the largest freshwater lake entirely within California, (Lake Tahoe is larger but split between California and Nevada) Clear Lake is a summertime boating and recreational haven. The County of Lake was carved out of Napa County in 1861, and today still combines small town Americana, a rugged landscape, history and many, many vineyards. Visitors who make the trek (about 1.5 hrs north of Napa) will be amazed to find high quality wineries, without crowds, traffic or attitude.

 

Many early settlers and pioneers came to Lake County because land was plentiful, cheap and the soil good. People came from all over America and beyond to this inland California County to make their fortunes.

 

Wine-grape cultivation began in the 1870’s with most of the grape harvest wagon-trained over the mountains to wineries in Napa Valley. By the late 1890’s, it is estimated that there were some 35 wineries operating in Lake County itself. In fact, at the 1893 Chicago Exposition, Lake County vintner Colonel Charles Hammond won the award for best dry white and red wines. (Hammond’s wine sold for a whopping 25 cents per gallon!)

 

What was once known as the “Switzerland of California,” with its high mountains surrounding a clean, clear lake, the area was expected to become an affluent paradise with magnificent homes on every shore. Alas, due to lack of lack of infrastructure, inadequate transportation and then Prohibition, Lake County never really thrived, until… today.

 

Vintners have learned that volcanic soils are perfect for grape growing, and ancient volcanoes are plentiful in the area, mostly notably Mt. Konocti. Hot days and mild nights with cool breezes from the Pacific, modern technology and a will to produce high quality products are helping Lake County prosper.   Driving around Clear Lake is the way to explore many of the wineries, and small towns of Lake County. 

 

Starting southeast, going north and then to the west, one could travel up from Napa to hit Langtry Estates in Guenoc, then Six Sigma in Lower Lake, on to Shannon Ridge in Clearlake Oaks, where the friendly staff will pour fine reds and their award winning Sauvignon Blanc. Next, traveling right along the eastern shore, you’ll eventually hit Ceago, Fetzer Winery’s organic label in its gorgeous new tasting room. Other wineries of note include Sly Dog, Moore Family Vineyards and Brassfield Estates.

 

Continue on Highway 29 around the westside of the Clear Lake to Lakeport, the county seat and largest city in Lake County. Farther south, near the town of Kelseyville are two excellent wineries, Steele and Wildhurst. Definitely try Wildhurst’s Reserve Syrah which recently won “Best of California” at the California State Fair.

 

At the northernmost tip of the lake is the tiny town of Upper Lake, where the Tallman Hotel resides. It’s the only boutique hotel in Lake County, and well worth the visit. Built in 1896 yet entirely restored, this building brings the past alive. The historic Blue Wing Saloon next door is hopping bar and nightspot where hotel guests dine and drink. 

 

Lake County wine tasting is, in a way, like traveling back in time. Besides producing excellent grapes and fine wines, and unlike its famous cousin Napa to the south, you’ll discover that Lake County is still very rural, with down-to-earth, country-laid-back people and old fashioned charm.