Wine: Monterey Chardonnays vary in taste, aroma

Few vistas create more "ahs" than the Pacific waves crashing into the rocks and beach along the Monterey Coast of California.

The same winds that exacerbate those waves blow through the Monterey valleys and across their vineyards. The winds, climate and soil produce wines that have distinct flavors, even compared with their neighbors to the north in Napa and Sonoma valleys.

More than 80 vintners and growers populate Monterey County, where 40,000 acres are planted. In the Monterey region are districts or appellations: Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Lucas, Hames Valley, Chalone, Carmel Valley, San Antonio Valley and San Bernabe

My wine-tasting group compared five chardonnays from this region, ranging in price from $12 to $22. The results of our blind tasting follow.

» 2007 Kali Hart Vineyard Monterey Chardonnay, $17.99.
This wine had a lighter, more delicate nose than the others, with lemongrass, clover and honeyed floral hints. It had a creamy texture with flavors of peaches, vanilla, pepper and cilantro. This wine from Talbott Vineyards finished first in our tasting.

» 2007 Jekel Gravelstone Monterey Chardonnay, $12.99.
We discovered aromas of ripe apples, pineapples, caramel corn, vanilla, cinnamon and other spice. The palate mirrored the bouquet, with an emphasis on the caramel flavor. This wine finished well, a sign of a good wine. It ranked second in our tasting.

» 2007 Hess Monterey Chardonnay, $11.99.
The nose reminded us of bananas, under-ripe oranges, green plantains and a hint of matchsticks. Lots of pretty citrus flavors appeared on the palate, including lemon, plus tart green apples. Clean and fresh, with a buttery finish, our second bottle tasted better than the first. A nice value at this price.

» 2006 Montoya Arroyo Seco Chardonnay, $16.99.
The bouquet offered scents of pears, banana bubble gum, nutmeg and a hint of plastic. The wine had a light-to-medium body, with tastes of juicy fruit and buttered popcorn. The palate was much better than the nose.

» 2006 Morgan Highland Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay, $21.99.
The aromas suggested pears, pineapples, lemon, butter, nuts and minerals. Rich and intense on the palate, the wine had flavors of apples, oak and minerals. We tasted a second bottle after deciding the first bottle was off. The second was really nice.

SURFING THE WINE SHELVES:

» 2005 Dolce Napa Valley, $85 for a half bottle.
This late- harvest nectar, made from 90 percent semillon and 10 percent sauvignon blanc, was full of orange, pear and ripe peach aromas, with underlying notes of minerals and honey. It was rich and full in the mouth, with good acids balancing the sweetness. While a superb after-dinner wine, I might also serve it with appetizers such as blue cheese or stuffed mushrooms.

» 2006 Mettler Family Vineyards "Epicenter" Lodi Old-vine Zinfandel, $19.99.
Jammy aromas of black fruit, backed by coffee and pepper. Flavors on the palate included black cherries, blackberries and black licorice.

» 2007 Seven Heavenly Chards, $17.
This sister to the Seven Deadly Zins from Michael & David Family of Wines in California's Lodi region smelled of toast with a hint of banana. In the mouth, buttered toast and lime played across the tongue.

» 2007 Raymond Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay, $20.
Citrus and stone fruit scents arose among honeyed blossoms and a hint of minerals. Flavors included oranges, lemon-lime, pears and oak, the latter particularly on the finish.

» 2005 Domaines Carneros Vintage Brut, $26.
Yeasty aromas of ripe apples, pears and citrus fruit. Creamy in the mouth with flavors of green apples, pears and vanilla.

» 2006 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, $40.
Aromas of red currants, red cherries and milk chocolate. Rich and round in the mouth, this syrah was dark and brooding, with a touch of elegance.

Contact Frank Sutherland at fsutherland@gmail.com. Frank, former editor of The Tennessean, has a wine-tasting panel that includes representatives from five wine distributors in Nashville, a wine collector, a sommelier and food writer Thayer Wine. The column appears Mondays. Prices may vary by region.