Wine country lowdown: Northern Willamette Valley

The Willamette Valley AVA, at roughly 9,000 square acres, is by far the state's largest. More importantly, it's regarded as the epicenter for commercial wine production in the state.

The majority of Oregon's nearly 400 wineries are tucked into the hills and ridges of the northern Willamette Valley in an arc that begins in western Washington County and stretches to McMinnville before curving south into Polk and Marion counties.

While growers experiment with different varietals, the bread-and-butter here is pinot noir, Oregon's flagship wine grape.

The cool climate constitutes the edge of where pinot noir can be ripened before autumn rains hit. Every year, growers watch their vines and the skies to see if they can once again beat nature to the punch.

A slowing economy means bargains for wine buyers. Many wineries are trimming prices and offering deep discounts for full-case purchases. Others are coming out with second labels -- good wines at reduced prices -- to sell existing inventories.

All of which, combined with the area's gorgeous scenery, makes this season a great time to experience the grape that earned Oregon a spot on the world's wine map.

The perfect day

A professional trip planner could make a career of guiding aficionados to the valley's 200 wineries. To simplify things this year, take Oregon 99W west straight to McMinnville. The historic downtown, in addition to numerous great dining spots, offers a healthy handful of noteworthy wineries. Stop first at Panther Creek Cellars (455 N.E. Irvine St.), housed in the city's old power station. Writer Robert Parker calls Panther Creek's wines some of the state's best. A few blocks away, R. Stuart & Co. (845 N.E. 5th St.) has turned an old granary into a winery offering pinot noir, sparkling wine and a head-turning late-harvest pinot gris. Bistro Maison (729 N.E. 3rd St.; 503-474-1888) and Nick's Italian Cafe (521 N.E. 3rd St.; 503-434-4471) both feature lunch entrees and appetizers crafted from fresh, locally grown produce. The Bistro's boeuf bourgignon (beef stew with red wine, onion, bacon and mushrooms) shouldn't be missed. Finish the day with a stop at Anthony Dell Cellars (845 N.E. 5th St., next to R. Stuart), where winemaking places strong emphasis on organic sprays, composting and other Earth-friendly farming practices.

The buzz

The 2007 vintage has been released to mixed reviews. Rains at harvest prompted some growers to pick early. Others crossed their fingers and waited. Ask tasting-room staff how the weather affected their particular offerings. On the off-chance that conversation lags, mention biodynamics -- agricultural practices devised in the early 1900s by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, which promote organic soil revitalization and following lunar and solar cycles for planting and harvesting, among other concepts. A growing number of Oregon wineries are embracing biodynamics, while others deride it as vintners' voodoo. Either way, winemakers are happy to weigh in on the topic.