Hot wines, cool for summer

Is the party over for pinot grigio? Will rosé be the rage or passé? Can prosecco sales continue to bubble upward? What will be the hot wines of summer?

Wine merchants and sommeliers across the nation peered into the bottoms of their Riedel crystal bowls to offer their predictions. As you might expect, white wines dominated their thoughts.

"Italian white wines are red-hot," said Tim Varan, founder of the Orlando-based Tim's Wine Market stores. "We've seen a move from pinot grigio. A lot of customers want a little more quality and character. Well-made Soave, vernaccia di San Gimignano and greco di Tufo are all really hot right now."

These wines are hot even though most customers cannot pronounce the names, Varan reported. (It's "SWAH-veh," "ver-NAHT-chah dee sahn jee-mee-NYAH-noh," and "GREH-koh dee TOO-foh," according to "The New Wine Lover's Companion.")

"The secret to all Italian whites is freshness," he added. "If the wine is dated 2007 or 2008, people are going to be happy with it. The 2006s are falling flat."

Varan also sees more interest in albariño ("ahl-bah-REE-nyoh") from Spain, because the whites are crisp, aromatic and just a little higher in alcohol than some other whites.

"Chardonnay lovers will find a texture there," he said.

Alpana Singh, director of wine and spirits for Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, a Chicago-based restaurant group, will be drinking a lot of Argentine torrontés this summer. She suspects a lot of people will be joining her.

"People see it as an alternative to pinot grigio. It's crisp and refreshing," she said. "People are looking for alternatives, and the economic downturn has a lot to do with it."

What she means is more and more wine drinkers are looking for value in wines made from lesser-known grape varieties in lesser-known wine regions.

"They say, 'Hey, $7, how bad can it be?’” Singh said.

Doug Bell, global wine co-buyer for Whole Foods Market, said summer is always a good time for the Austin, Texas-based chain to showcase alternative whites, such as grüner veltliner ("GROO-ner VELT-lih-ner").

"When we feature we see sales and then repeat sales afterwards," he said.

Bell thinks grüner veltliner and verdejo, ("vehr-DAY-yoh") a Spanish white varietal, will be big pours this summer. Affordable prosecco, an Italian sparking wine, will continue to be popular.

"We have one called Presto that we can't keep in stock, especially during the warmer months," he said.

There were mixed predictions on how rosé might fare this summer.

"Rosés were kind of the 'it' wine last year. I'm not seeing the early enthusiasm for it now," Varan said.

Bell, on the other hand, said rosé's popularity remains undimmed no matter the source.

"Americans are now embracing drier rosé like our Continental cousins in Europe and the U.K., where all they drink is pink on hot days," he said.

Six for summer sipping

There's so much more to white wine than chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and, yes, pinot grigio. You may have a chance for more encounters with so-called alternative whites this summer, because experts believe wine drinkers are looking for something different. One of these six whites may just be your must-have pour.

2008 Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling

A vibrant riesling from Washington's Columbia Valley with notes of watermelon and lime, a sweet-tart nose and lots of mouthwatering acidity. Perfect for Thai curries, stir-fries, grilled whitefish. $12.

2007 Condes de Albarei Albariño

This is a big, mouth-filling Spanish white with a buttery floral nose and touches of pear on the palate. Serve with grilled shrimp, paella, orange-marinated pork tenderloin. $15.

2007 Helfrich Gewürztraminer

From Alsace in France, a voluptuous wine warmed with hints of clove and cinnamon. The nose offers touches of violets, honey and washed stone. Serve with buffalo wings, grilled teriyaki salmon, roast duck. $12.

2008 Bonny Doon Ca' del Solo Muscat

This wine from California's Monterey County has the spicy, grapey aroma characteristic of this grape variety. The flavor is quite dry but with just a touch of sweetness for added depth. Serve with grilled chicken and mango salsa, adobo-rubbed pork chops, grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp. $18.

2008 Marqués de Caceres Rioja

A Spanish white so lively and tart it leaves a tingle on the tongue. Made from viura (also known as macabeo) grapes, the wine has a fragrant aroma suggestive of apples. The flavor offers up touches of grapefruit. Serve with shrimp salad sandwiches, tapas, fried chicken. $10.

2007 Donnafugata Anthilia

A 50-50 blend of Ansonica and Catarratto from Sicily, this wine has a buttery texture. The flavor offers notes of butterscotch and honey. Serve with fried calamari, lobster salad, shrimp and pineapple skewers. $15.

You want that wine. But your store may not choose to carry it. What to do if your search for these wines runs dry? Ask your wine retailer for a wine similar in flavor, style and price to your chosen bottle.