Thinking globally kitchens: Food and culture in four Bolder kitchens

By Jessica Warnock  2009-5-6 17:29:39

A person's life can be enriched through the knowledge and understanding of different cultures. And, in these tight economic times, that doesn't necessarily mean you have to hop on a plane and fly across the world.

Boulder County has long been a beacon for diversity. From salsa dancing to hookah houses, Boulder enjoys a variety of cultural influences from all over the world. Here is a look inside four local kitchens influenced by four different continents.

Food is culture. Through cuisine and tradition we learn about the lives of others. Or as Tsehay Hailu from the Ethiopian kitchen puts it, "What brings us together as human beings is food."

Peruvian kitchen: A secret place

Everyone in Peru thinks they have the secret to cooking the best Peruvian food, says Nancy Bocanegra. Each cook has an exclusive touch that makes her aj de gallina, or Peruvian chicken stew with chili sauce, the best around.

Bocanegra, who moved with her family to Boulder eight years ago from Peru, says cooking in her kitchen is like being the director of an orchestra. People constantly enter the kitchen giving their opinion without solicitation.

"Everybody wants a hand in it," says Bocanegra. "They say, 'Put this in. Put that in. Add more of this.'"

Bocanegra says there are two main decisions to make when waking up in the morning in Peru: What am I going to wear today? And what am I going to eat today?

"It's part of our emotions to eat," says Bocanegra. "It's like a family meeting. We decide on what dish."

The kitchen is a special place in Peru because it is closed off from all other areas. It's like a mysterious and private workshop where dozens of ingredients are carefully prepared over a long period of time. Cooking is like an art that takes a long time, says Bocanegra. It is an inspiration that is passed through generations.

"If you don't know how to cook, you don't know how to teach," she says.

Peruvian food is a combination of African, indigenous, coastal, Italian and Chinese influences. A typical dinner is served in three parts. The appetizer, or entrado, can be white regional cheese to chupe de camarones (Peruvian shrimp chowder). Next, the main dish is often a chicken or meat stew, possibly served with ceviche. That's Bocanegra's favorite. Finally, local fruits such as fresh mangos, are popular for desert, as well as rice pudding or masamera morado, which is purple flaun.

The adults drink Peruvian wine, while kids drink Inca Kola, a widely popular yellow soda that tastes kind of like bubblegum.

After dinner, families and friends often talk, listen to music, and dance for hours until they are hungry and decide they should cook some more.

According to Bocanegra, in Peru, "To eat is a party."

Nancy Bocanegra serves dinner to her family.

Jonathan Castner

Nancy Bocanegra serves dinner to her family.


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