Tasting blind is the true test of a great wine

As often as I can, I taste wines blind. By this I mean not seeing the bottle or knowing what has been poured in a glass. When I put the original wine list together at CAV, I would gather like wines — say 20 pinot noirs — put them in brown bags, have someone else number them, and then taste them in a series of flights. The reason for this is that no matter how objective we may try to be, all of us have certain preconceptions that are hard to shake. So the most honest way to evaluate a wine is not knowing what it is ahead of time.

Like some other wine professionals, I’ve chosen wines for restaurants and written about wines for publications like this for years. I don’t have the opportunity to blind taste everything, but I certainly enjoy tasting this way more.

Professional wine exams like the Master Sommelier, Master of Wine and the Wine and Spirits Education Trust require passing a blind-tasting exam.

Anyone can enroll in these programs, which can take years to complete, but not everyone passes. Some of the best tasters I know have never gone through any of these programs, but making it through is an accomplishment.

When I first started writing this column in 2005, the intention was for it to be fun, but also educational for The Examiner’s readers.

Nearly every week since then, I’ve chosen a wine topic and recommended related wines, but have not really discussed methods of tasting wine.

This week, I want to give everyone an assignment to taste at least two wines blind.

The professional wine exams ask detailed questions and expect that the tasters will be able to identify where the wine originates, its age and the composition of its grapes. We don’t need to be as specific (though by all means, don’t let me stop you) but I want you to consider the following:

1. Is the wine balanced? Above all, well-made wines should be balanced. For example, if a wine is sweet, there should be enough acidity so it does not seem cloying. If it is tannic, there should be enough fruit to sustain the wine as it ages.

2. Does it remind you of anything you have tasted before, and if so, why? The professional wine examinations are more concerned with the reasoning and justification behind an answer than getting the wine right.

3. How much would you pay for the wine? On more than one occasion, I’ve fallen in love with an inexpensive wine. I’ve also ripped apart numerous high-profile, very pricey wines as some of you may already know.

The purpose of this exercise is simply to help you broaden your wine horizons.
You might think you hate chardonnay until a white Burgundy passes your lips. I’ll write some more on tasting wine again, but for now do your homework and I’ll have some more wines for you to taste next week.

Staying objective: The best way to find a superior wine as an experienced taster is by taking a blind test — without the labels. (AFP/Getty Images)