Everything’s coming up Rosé

MANY YEARS BACK, when the earth was still cooling, drinking Rosé was quite popular. Gradually, the category faded into relative insignificance. Pink wines, of a sort, made a brief comeback with the "Blush" white Zinfandels from California, but that craze, too, has mainly had its day.

Recently, though, Rosé is back with a vengeance. Just about every winemaking country seems to be producing them, and some of the classics from the past are once again hitting the shelves.

Cristall & Luckett, in Bedford, has climbed on the bandwagon with an eclectic assortment that demonstrates the wide array of appealing Rosé wines that can be made.

Five of these are reviewed below, together with this week’s bargain selections.

Meanwhile, Cape Breton’s plucky and determined Glenora Distillery has fought off yet another legal challenge from the Scotch Whisky Association in Edinburgh over the use of the term "Glen," as it could allegedly be confused with several Scotch malts that use the same term.

Last week, the Supreme Court of Canada refused to hear an appeal that could have prevented Glenora from using the name in Glen Breton Rare Whisky.

The term is entirely in keeping with the rich Scottish traditions in Cape Breton, and is equally consistent with the blood lines of Glenora president Lauchie MacLean and vice-president Bob Scott.

The same can hardly be said for many of today’s Scotch whisky distilleries, which are owned by multinational corporations that have little natural affinity with their product.

Also, I am looking forward to joining the judging panel this weekend for the first Atlantic Canada Wine Competition. Presentation of the awards will take place on June 27. I will pass on the presentation details in next week’s column.

Reviews

Victor Contis Grenache — Syrah Côte du Rhone Rosé AC, 2008, 13 per cent, $15.99. Salmon pink in colour with seductively ripe strawberry scents carrying through on the palate and generous red berry flavours backed by surprisingly firm stony mineral grip. This delightful wine has an attractively fruity finish and refreshingly clean acidity.

Le Village du Sud Grenache Rosé Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007, 13 per cent, $12.99. The onion skin colour is typical of many southern French rosés. This one shows lightly fruity and dried grassy notes with a slight impression of ripe sweetness, but also some stony mineral grip. Attractively balanced, quite dry, and enough weight to pair with most lighter fare, but also charcuterie.

Castillo de Almansa Rosado Syrah, 2008, Almansa D.O. Bodegas Piqueras, 13.5 per cent, $11.99 sale price this month. Very deeply coloured, with striking strawberry, red cherry and dry savoury notes on the nose and fruity, but robustly flavourful character and structure on the palate. Cherry and red berry flavours persist through the finish. Has the guts to stand up to spicy foods like grilled shrimp in a chili, tomato and garlic sauce. If you think you don’t like rosé, try this one.

Corinto Rosé 2007 Central Valley, Chile, 13.5 per cent, $12.99. Slightly shy but fragrant strawberry and raspberry scents with sweet, ripe berry flavours and a suggestion of alcoholic heat. Still has some life in, it but best to drink up now.

Le Chant de l’Oiseau Cabernet d’Anjou, 2007, AC Domaine de Trottières, 11.5 per cent, $16.99. Shows distinctive cherry and almost pungent green herbal intensity on the nose. Very dry choke cherry character on the palate is offset by lightly sweet residual sugar. Has some mineral grip with a lingering touch of honeyed sweetness. A cool climate wine to drink as an aperitif or with picnic foods.

Bargains

Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc, 2008, 10.5 per cent, $12.99, NSLC general list. Lower in alcohol than previous vintages, this one shows commendable restraint and surprisingly polished style. Very deftly balanced, with refreshing, but unobtrusive acidity, and no aggressively pungent Sauvignon character. It will please most palates.

Lindemans Cabernet Shiraz, 2008, 13.5 per cent, $10.99, $20.49 (1500ml), NSLC general list. Ever-reliable and well-made typical Southeastern Australia Shiraz Cab blend. Good depth of fruit, balanced, easy drinking style to drink with most red meats.