Wine, etc.: Expert wine producer making a name for himself

The name Robert Pepi is well known in wine circles in California. But the Robert Pepi we recently saw was in town to talk about some different wines - his family sold the property and rights to the family name to Kendall-Jackson in 1994.

Visit our WebsiteBob has been extremely busy in the past 15 years with stints at Conn Creek and Villa Mt. Eden, and is currently winemaker consultant to several wineries, including Whitehall Lake, Bodegas Valentin Bianchi, Canyon Wind Winery in Colorado and his newest project - Two Angels in Lake County, Calif. He is also owner of Eponymous, a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon-based wine, and Eponymous meritage made from grapes produced in the MacAllister Vineyard in the Maycamas Mountains.

Since Bob has more than 35 vintages of experience producing wine, we asked him about his opinion of the higher alcohol wines that are produced in California today. Conventional wisdom blames winemakers and viticulturists for allowing grapes to hang longer on the vines, thus increasing brix (sugar) levels to a point where the outcome is monstrously alcoholic wines of 15 percent or more.

Interestingly, he explained that there are two major reasons - in addition to riper grapes - why wines from California tend to have more alcohol than their predecessors of 50 years ago.

First, 95 percent of Sonoma and Napa Valley vineyards - once riddled by phylloxera - have been replanted with healthy vines in the past 15 years. These new plantings replaced older vineyards that suffered from the ravages of old age.

Second, new yeasts can now convert grape sugar into alcohol more efficiently, thus increasing the overall alcohol level of a wine.

As an aside, Bob also commented on the use of "natural yeasts" by some winemakers in comparison to yeasts purchased to produce the fermentation. He called it a misnomer because most wineries are introducing non-native yeasts by spreading the solid wastes - skins and seeds

- throughout the vineyards. They can take over the local ecosystem.We tasted several of Bob's recent wines, including:

Eponymous Napa Valley 2006 ($60). Made from a low-yield vineyard of only 2.5 tons an acre, this 100 percent cabernet sauvignon has plums and berries with a nice hint of olives. Bob feels it should peak between seven and 12 years. We also especially like the 2001 and 2003 if you can find them.

Eponymous MacAllister Red 2006 ($50). This is a new meritage wine made from 65 percent cabernet sauvignon, 19 percent merlot and 16 percent cabernet franc. This beauty is already drinking well with cherry and vanilla flavors, and should have a great future.

The Valentin Bianchi Enzo Mendoza wines from Argentina were a clear departure from Bob's efforts in Napa Valley. They reminded us of some of the best Spanish wines that we have tasted, with warm, ripe cherry flavors and soft oak spices. We especially liked the 1997, with its fabulous complexity and pleasing presence in the mouth. The 1999 and 2000 are also worth seeking. The current release is the 2003, and is ready to drink with ripe cherry fruit and mocha notes. It costs about $57.

We also were impressed with two new wines from Two Angels, with grapes grown in the High Valley in Lake County. The Two Angels Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($14) is an amazing glass of wine with oodles of ripe fruit and citrus, herb and fig flavors that will surely please the fans of this varietal. The aromas of Two Angels Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($30) jump out of the glass and are followed by delicious cherry fruit and vanilla flavors. This is a real crowd-pleaser.

Wine picks

Concannon Central Coast Petite Sirah 2006 ($15). Concannon made its name years ago with the petite sirah, and it continues to please the palate without breaking the bank. It is loaded with ripe blackberries, spice and oak with a dash of vanilla. Firm in body, it is best matched with grilled meat.

Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot ($52). More elegant in style, this complex merlot has a soft texture, generous berry aromas and a dose of chocolate.

Marchesi Antinori Peppoli 2006 ($28). We love this Chianti Classico year to year for its character. Loaded upfront with intense blackberry and raspberry aromas, it has a full body but fine tannins.

Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvee 2006 ($35). You can't help but get lots of flavor and complexity from such a blend: cabernet sauvignon (69 percent), malbec, syrah, merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc. Soft mouthfeel, red cherry and raspberry flavors with interesting herbal notes and long finish. Very quaffable.