Argentine white gets attention

 In the last couple of years, tasty and affordable wines from Argentina have been commanding attention and shelf space in America.

Powerful, fruity reds from the malbec grape have been the center of attention, but whites from the less well-known grape torrentes are beginning to create a buzz, too.

Argentines have been making wine since the Spanish conquistadores settled there. Today, the country is the fifth-largest wine producer in the world. We saw little of it until recently, because Argentines drank most of it. Much of what was produced was cheap and sold locally.

With a recent focus on quality, though, Argentina is beginning to shine, planting internationally popular varieties such as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, as well as the less well-known malbec and torrentes.

Wine drinkers appreciate the more distinctive flavors of those lesser-known varieties, though, and they are both on their way to becoming Argentina's "signature" grapes.

Torrentes has a distinctive flavor profile, a pretty, almost perfume aroma combined with a refreshing citrus taste. Torrentes wines feel like summer in a bottle, markedly floral and fruity, reminiscent of rose petals, jasmine, tangerines and litchi. In fact, the wine can smell so floral, you almost expect it to taste sweet.

As with most aromatic varieties, the wine doesn't need oak aging to mask the intricate aromas, and the wine will not be sweet at all, just full of zingy Granny Smith apple acidity and refreshing fruit.

Typically, the wines are medium-bodied with zesty acidity that makes them particularly food-friendly.

Most vineyards in Argentina are in the western part of the country, in the foothills of the soaring Andes mountains. They're often planted at high elevations where cool night breezes allow the grapes to ripen slowly without losing their all-important acids. Growers cleverly corral the water from the Andes snow melt in one of the world's most complex and effective irrigation systems, allowing grapes to thrive in what otherwise might be desert.

It's surprising that a delicate white variety can thrive in the heat, but with careful site selection and higher-altitude plantings, torrentes does very well.

One of the best things about discovering Argentine wines is their affordability. Most wines we see here are vinos finos, the very top level, but even these rarely cost more than $20. On a recent trip to Total Wine & More, there were several nice examples of torrentes, none more than $10.

Torrentes is one of those rare food wines with enough personality to hold up to more complex flavors, yet with enough crisp acidity to enhance both lighter and more full-bodied food. It pairs beautifully with grilled salmon with pineapple mango salsa and just as nicely the next day with Szechuan spicy noodles.

Torrentes is a nice alternative to heavier oaked whites, especially in summer. This is not a wine to put in the cellar; it's meant to be drunk while it's young and fresh. Sip it while you're heating up the coals on the grill, and try it with something a little spicy for a summer taste treat.