Tasting wines with ice

A bottle on ice is nice, but how about ice in wine?

The wine tasting panel decided to find out. Six wines were poured and tasted at 74 degrees: two whites, two rosés, two reds. Then each glass got one ice cube. The panel came back and retested several minutes later when the ice had melted. Panelists looked to see if the wines would taste watery when the ice was added.

Tasters thought the addition of ice did not improve taste or aroma for most wines. Only two wines, a California chardonnay and a French rosé, scored higher with ice added.

2008 Folonari Soave: This Italian white, a blend of garganega and trebbiano, had an appealing grassy aroma. Crisply tart with notes of green apple and pear. Most tasters thought the ice "flattened" out the wine. $13 NO ICE

2008 Valley of the Moon Chardonnay: A Sonoma County white, buttery yellow in color and buttery in aroma. The wine tasted of butterscotch and ripe peaches. The ice tamed the oakiness and coaxed out some notes of fruit. $13 YES ICE

2008 Chateau d'Esclans Rosé Whispering Angel: There's a sweet-tart nose to this rosé from Cotes de Provence. A raspberry flavor gives way to a citrus finish. The ice brings out the fruit. $20 YES ICE

2008 Banfi Centine: A dry, austere rosé made from sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with muted strawberry flavor and a slight metallic finish. Ice tamped down this Tuscan wine even further. $9 NO ICE

2008 Yangarra Grenache: A red from Australia's McLaren Vale region, with lots of black cherry notes and a noticeably tannic finish. The ice tamped the tannins but also diminished the fruit profile. $20 NO ICE

2007 Cecchi Chianti Natio: Made from organic grapes, this Chianti had a pronounced barnyard aroma and tasted, well, like salami brushed with plum. The ice lowered its uninhibited profile. $15 NO ICE