Wine road leads to hidden treasures in Southern Illinois

Blue Sky Vineyard has one of the most impressive tasting rooms on the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail. (By Tom Uhlenbrock/P-D)

SHAWNEE NATIONAL FOREST, SOUTHERN ILLINOIS — The 280,000 acres of the Shawnee National Forest is not a solid expanse of trees. Two-lane blacktop roads lead in and out of the national forest to farms, churches, cemeteries and geologic wonders like the Pomona Natural Bridge, Giant City State Park and Little Grand Canyon.

Those skinny, sun-dappled roads also lead to wineries: More than two dozen wineries and 70 commercial vineyards make up the Shawnee Hills American Viticulture Area.

Twelve of those wineries are on the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail, which meanders some 25 miles from Pomona to Makanda. Finding those dozen is like a treasure hunt, with each providing a shady nook to sample their wines and enjoy the scenery.

"This whole wine trail is a discovery process," said George Majka, owner of Pomona Winery. "People discover it, and get excited, and tell their friends. You bring in the words treasure and hunt, and it adds more magic to it." 

Pomona Winery is one of the surprises along the trail — it makes wine with nary a grape. Instead, the vintners use apples, blueberries, peaches and other fruits produced by the orchards that also prosper in the area.

"Pomona Winery just took its fourth Governor's Cup, for its strawberry wine," Majka said. "There have been eight Governor's Cups awarded for non-grape wines and we've won four of them."

Another surprise was down the road at Hickory Ridge. Owner Ron Presswood was working in the vineyards recently when his wife, Sylvia, walked up and said, "You got a minute?" She then told her husband that their dry red Norton had won Best of Show at the Illinois State Fair.

"It means it's the best of the best — No. 1," Presswood said. "Which was kind of surprising because we're one the smallest wineries and the second newest (after Rustle Hill) on the wine trail. We still do it the old-fashioned way in oak barrels."

I found several other additions since my last drive down the wine trail a year ago. Hedman Vineyards has a new café, Von Jakob Vineyard has begun serving lunch and Inheritance Valley has stocked wine-making kits for people who want to try their hand as a vintner.

"It's great for conversation at Christmas 'cause everybody wants a bottle," said owner Tim Waller. "They can start doing it themselves, but we find they come back for help."

You can discover your own treasures and surprises on the wine trail. For a map and brochures, call 1-800-248-4373, or visit southernmostillinois.com. Here's the information you need to get started:

1. KITE HILL VINEYARDS

Where • South on Highway 127 out of Murphysboro 4.5 miles, left on Grammer. The winery is the second driveway on the left at 83 Kite Hill Road.

Vintner’s choice • Chambourcin Reserve ($25) is a full-bodied, dry red aged in oak. Chardonel ($16) is a semi-dry white with notes of peach and pear and a smooth honey-like finish.

Unique • The tasting room is decorated with kites hanging from the ceiling and artwork available for sale by a local artist. The deck overlooks the vineyard and a five-acre lake. A B&B on the grounds has two guest rooms.

Information • Cheese and sausages available for purchase, and guests are encouraged to bring a picnic basket. Local musicians perform from 4 to 6 p.m. Fridays, April through October. 1-618-684-5072 and kitehillvineyards.com.

2. POMONA WINERY

Where • At 2865 Hickory Ridge Road near Pomona. From Murphysboro, head 5 miles south on Highway 127 and follow the blue signs to the right, 9 miles to the winery.

Vintner's choice • Jonathan Oak Aged Reserve ($12) is a crisp, clean wine made from Jonathan apples and aged in French white oak. The winery's best seller is the Kir ($12), which won last year's Governor's Cup for best fruit (non-grape) wine made from Illinois fruit. It's a version of a popular French bar drink made from a blend of apple and black currant wines. Served as an aperitif.

Unique • Pomona specializes in non-grape wines made from fresh local fruit, including apples, peaches, blueberries and strawberries. Customers are invited to taste the 10 wines on the list, and enjoy a glass or bottle from the covered decks overlooking the Shawnee National Forest while birds, bees and squirrels provide the entertainment.

Information • No food is sold but picnic lunches are encouraged. 1-618-893-2623 and pomonawinery.com.

3. HICKORY RIDGE VINEYARD AND WINERY

Where • At 1598 Hickory Ridge Road, on the west side of the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail, 1 mile south of the Pomona Winery.

Vintner's choice • The Norton ($21) dry red won best of show in the 2009 Illinois State Fair wine competition. "2" ($12) is a blend of two whites, Traminette and Cayuga White, for a light, clean flavor.

Unique • With plenty of deck space and shady areas overlooking the vineyard, Hickory Ridge features views of the surrounding Shawnee National Forest.

Information • Picnics and private parties are welcome. 1-618-893-1700 and hickoryridgevineyard.com .

4. VON JACOB VINEYARD

Where • The winery has two locations, on Highway 127 in Alto Pass, between Murphysboro and Anna, and at 1309 Sadler Road in Pomona, 3 miles off Highway 127.

Vintner's choice • The Cabernet Sauvingnon ($23) is a dry red with a hint of chocolate and berries and a peppery finish. Cave Creek ($10) is a dry white, very floral.

Unique • Both locations have tasting rooms, gift shops and decks overlooking the vineyards. The Alto Pass location has dining available Friday through Sunday; Friday dinner by reservations only. The vineyard also recently opened its Cottage, which can be rented by the bedroom or by the house.

Information • The vineyard has a free music series most weekends. Call 1-618-893-4600 or visit vonjakobvineyard.com for a schedule.

5. ALTO VINEYARDS

Where • On Highway 127, south of Murphysboro and just north of Alto Pass.

Vintner's choice • Villard Blanc ($10) is a dry white wine that is clean and crisp, with lemon and green apple flavors. The Chambourcin ($17) is a dry, full-bodied premium red with hints of black cherries and plum, aged in American oak for six months.

Unique • Alto Vineyards is the oldest, largest winery in Southern Illinois, and its wines have won the most awards. The tasting room offers free tastings of six wines and features a gift shop with local artisan work, wine paraphernalia and gourmet food. An outdoor pavilion and two decks (one covered) overlook a lake and 10 acres of vines.

Information • No dining, but picnics are welcome. For entertainment schedule, call 1-618-893-4898 or visit altovineyards.net.

6. HEDMAN VINEYARDS

Where • Highway 127 to Alto Pass, follow the signs to the vineyards.

Vintner's choice • Chambourcin ($16.50) is a dry, full-bodied red aged in oak. Late Harvest Vidal ($10.85) is a white dessert wine.

Unique • The vineyards offers Swedish gourmet food. You can sit among the hummingbirds on the pavilion outdoors, overlooking the lake, or inside the restored barn. The barn has a cozy, two-room suite, decorated in Swedish style with a massage tub and private deck, available for nightly rental.

Information • For B&B rental, call 1-618-893-4923 or visit hedmanvineyards.com.

MAP KEY
1. Kite Hill Vineyards; 2. Pomona Winery; 3. Hickory Ridge Vineyard; 4. Von Jacob Vineyard; 5. Alto Vineyards; 6. Hedman Vineyards; 7. Inheritance Valley Vineyards; 8. Rustle Hill Winery; 9. Owl Creek Vineyard; 10. StarView Vineyards; 11. Blue Sky Vineyard; 12. Orlandini Vineyard