Wine-loving French go on shopping spree

PARIS — French wine lovers are rushing to big supermarkets this week to replenish their cellars during the annual wine sales, unleashing a shopping spree that celebrates France's love affair with the vine.

France comes alive as a wine powerhouse during the next four weeks as legions of consumers manoeuvre their shopping carts through crates of Bordeaux and Bourgognes in search of the best vintage at a good price.

While wine consumption has dropped here over the past four decades, the annual "foire aux vins" (wine fair) remains hugely popular as the appointed time to stock up.

Carrefour, France's number one retailer, sold six million bottles of wine during last year's event and expects sales to be about the same this year, despite the economic crisis that is hitting pocketbooks hard.

"There is a crisis but wine is one of those items that can be considered 'anti-crisis'," said Benjamin Stainemesse, head of wine sales at Carrefour.

"This year is a bit different but people still want to enjoy themselves. A nice bottle of wine on the table can really help," he said.

Carrefour boasts more than 450 labels on sale chosen by an army of tasters, from a modest Cotes du Rhone at 2.10 euros (3 dollars) per bottle to a golden Sauternes Chateau d'Yquem at 550 euros (800 dollars).

Sales from the "foire aux vins" represent up to 25 percent of the total annual turnover for wines in big supermarkets, according to France AgriMer, the state food agency.

In the weeks leading up to the "foire aux vins", special magazines and expert guides devoted to the best wine buys have gone on sale, helping to arm consumers with advice on their purchases.

Philippe Laillet, who works in elevator sales, turned up at a supermarket outside Paris this week with a detailed list of selections to top up the 500-plus bottles ageing in his cellar at home.

"Every year I spend about 400 euros at the wine sale," said Laillet. "This year, I'm just looking for something nice to enjoy with friends."

Marie ben Hamad, a real estate investor, dropped a cool 2,000 euros for dozens of bottles chosen from the brightly-illustrated wine catalogue -- a publication nearly as voluminous as the one released for Christmas.

"When I want to give a gift, it's often a nice bottle of wine," said ben Hamad.

The first "foire aux vins" dates back to the 1980s when retailer Leclerc decided to offer a special selection for a few weeks.

Sales took off and now all of the supermarket chains along with a few budding web-based retailers are taking part, turning the autumn event into a nationwide wine-buying spree.

Overall, Bordeaux are the big draw as the wines come from France's biggest producers, capable of meeting high demand.

About 12,000 people poured into a supermarket outside Paris on the first day of the wine sale, with some spending up to 15,000 euros on prestigious labels, said Christophe Riffort, the manager for wines of the Carrefour in Montesson.

But architect Fabien Gelineau complained that buying wines in a supermarket was anathema to France's "wine culture".

He turned up to buy several dozen bottles but lamented that the bright lights and sanitized surroundings of the supermarket were a far cry from the enriching experience of a visit to a vineyard.

"This is a commercial vision of wine. When you go directly to the producer, you see his vineyards and learn about the soil. Here there is nothing of that," said Gelineau.

The wine sales coincide with the autumn harvest and countless food fairs across the country that put French agriculture in the spotlight.

For wine producers, the "foire aux vins" provides a major boost at a time when they are struggling with falling demand.

Wine consumption has dropped considerably since the 1960s when downing several glasses of rouge was considered part of the French lifestyle.

Now the French on average drink one glass of wine per day, down from three in the 1960s and studies show consumers under 30 prefer other alcohol drinks to wine, according to the agriculture ministry.