It’s wine season in South America
EDMOND — As all folks know, the seasons south of the equator are reversed from ours here in the northern hemisphere. So as we ease into the arms of Old Man Winter our friends from the south are enjoying the end of spring and moving into summer.
Winemakers in Europe and North America realized this important commodity in the 1980s, and several of the major producers in these areas started acquiring or created new wineries in the southern hemisphere, primarily in Argentina and Chile.
This afforded them year-round wine production, especially of several grape varietals not grown to any extent in North America or Europe. However these were Old World varietals that had been planted in the New World before the great phylloxera epidemic hit Europe.
Specifically there were Malbec (Argentina) and Carménère (Chile), the latter incorrectly identified as a hybrid merlot until recently. These Old World grapes were used primarily in the Bordeaux blends of the past. After the phylloxera epidemic they were not replanted extensively in Europe and only recently have some North American producers planted Malbec in the United States.
The wine producing nations of South America are making great strides in improving the quality of their product. The wines of Chile are the most predominant on the foreign market, but those of Chile’s larger neighbor, Argentina, are increasing in quality, and consequently also making an impact. As well as these two countries, there is also a small amount of wine coming out of Uruguay.
My current area of interest is the inland wine regions of Maipo and the Rapel Valley. Chile’s oldest wine region is Maipo, which is divided into a number of sub-regions. Red varieties are favored, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, and some of the wines produced there are very good and continue to improve.
Maipo is the site for production of the premium wine Almaviva, from producer Concha y Toro, which has vineyards all over Chile. For great everyday wines with wonderful value, I would recommend the Casillero Del Diablo brand, where they do a wonderful assortment of quality, affordable wines. These wines are produced in another wonderful wine region known as the Rapel Valley, south of Maipo with its sub-regions Cachapoal and Colchagua. Wines produced here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere. I would recommend their Carmenere; if you have not experienced this varietal, this is a good one to start with first. Carmenere as noted until recently was mistaken as a merlot hybrid until DNA testing revealed otherwise.
Carmenere has a dark and deep crimson color and a nose filled with dark plum and chocolate with hints of coffee and toasted oak. The oak flavoring comes from 70 percent of the wine being aged in American Oak for eight months and 30 percent of the wine being aged in stainless steel for the same period. This combination gives the wine a well-rounded finish with good structure and bright fruit.
If you have not tried Carmenere, I would highly recommend it. As for food pairing, Carmenere goes exceedingly well with meats, ripe cheeses and pasta.
Argentina has one other significant aid to an increase in exports. Like Carménère in Chile, Argentina has its own French variety, Malbec. This grape, historically thought of as a minor Bordeaux variety, as well as playing a role in the appellations of the southwest of France, such as Cahors, is behind some of Argentina’s top reds.
Malbec is typically a medium- to full-bodied red wine. Ripe fruit flavors of plums and blackberry give it a jammy characteristic. The tannins are typically a bit tight and the earthy, wood-like appeal makes for a fairly rustic, yet versatile wine.
As for food pairings it is definitely a red meat wine that is adaptable enough to stand up to spicy Mexican, Cajun, Indian or Italian fare (especially with tomato-based sauces). Consider giving Malbec a go with barbecue, chili and sausage.
Argentina has another interesting grape, Torrontés, a white variety with some character. With good winemaking this variety can produce fresh and aromatic wines, not unlike those made from Muscat.
My favorite producers for good affordable, quality wines from Argentina are Bodegas Weinert, Bodegas J & F Lurton. There is some good value drinking from La Agrícola. Nicolas Catena produces a range of good value wines (Alamos Ridge) as well as top reds (Catena, Alta Catena).
So if you are looking for something different to try and are a little adventurous, please give Carménère and Malbec a try. I know you will not be disappointed and will have given your palette a few more choices.
Salud!