White Wine Turns On The Charm

Let’s go for charm in the form of Dogajolo 2008, from Tuscany’s Carpineto firm, which is known for Chianti Classico. There’s a red Dogajolo (pronounced “dogayalo”), but this is the white.

Many casual wine consumers have heard of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc grapes, which form a large part of this charming wine. And probably some people with more specialized knowledge have heard of the grechetto grape.

A grape called incrocio Manzoni, which makes up a smidgeon of this wine, however, might stump even a seasoned wine writer. Italy possesses thousands of obscure grape varieties, some used only in tiny pockets of winemaking regions, and this one, indigenous to Tuscany, is one of those. One would be hard-pressed – no pun intended – to determine exactly what 3 percent incrocio Manzoni grapes add to Dogajolo 2008, but it’s comforting to know that such grapes are not abandoned. 

So, what do we have? A mild gold color shimmering with pale green highlights; an enticing bouquet of roasted lemon, spiced pear, almond and dried thyme, with a subtle earthiness about it; delicacy married to a savory quality, briskness like a fresh salt-sea breeze, nuances of citrus and lemon with a touch of lime and a tiny portion of dried, meadowy herbs.

FOR YOUR VERY OWN BOTTLE
Arthur's' Wine & Liquor
5475 Poplar Ave., $13
Kirby Wine & Liquors
2865 Kirby Parkway, $13
Poplar Pike Liquors
9330 Poplar Pike, Germantown, $13

Great aperitif or with chicken salad, sushi or crab cakes.