Winemakers growing 'on the edge' accept risks, rewards
Winemakers know that growing grapes "on the edge" can create terrific opportunities for making memorable wines. But ripening grapes on the razor's edge of perfection also carries potentially devastating risks.
On the California coast, about 125 miles north of San Francisco in remote western Mendocino County, temperamental gewurztraminer, pinot gris and pinot noir varietals thrive in Anderson Valley's cool climate, a world-class "on the edge" terroir.
Dramatic, redwood-lined Alpine mountains and beautiful, fog-shrouded rolling hills frame the rugged, rural valley. Each night, the Navarro River draws the Pacific Ocean's cool fogs over the valley floor. Then, each morning, as hawks soar majestically, the brilliant rising sun in the East dissolves the mists and rekindles the slowly ripening vines.
"We pick some grapes in late October or even the first week of November," says winemaker Milla Handley, founder in 1983 of Handley Cellars in the heart of Anderson Valley. Warmer California regions harvest as early as August.
Anderson Valley grapes maintain naturally low pH and high acidity to mature at lower sugar levels. Pure, well-balanced fruit flavors and relatively low alcohol characterize the resulting wines.
This creates marvelous compatibility and versatility with food similar to European wine traditions. And as in Europe, vintage variations play a significant role in Anderson Valley.
Early frosts, summer drought and excessive harvest rains always lurk.
"Growing grapes on the edge means if you try to over crop, then you might not get a crop," Handley says. "We taste constantly in the vineyards to have a clue as to what's going on. Then we adjust to make the vintage the best it can be. We set the tone in the vineyard and carry through in the winery."
At nearby Husch Vineyards, co-owner Zac Robinson agrees.
"Farming is working with Mother Nature. It's not like running a factory with machines," he says with a laugh. "You can never really plan on how each vintage will unfold. You have to respond to what you get."
Robinson says appropriate infrastructure -- proper vine trellising, irrigation lines and sustainable farming practices -- helps determine effectiveness. But cultivating grape varieties appropriate to Anderson Valley's terroir plays the most crucial factor.
"The Alsace varietals -- gewurztraminer and pinot gris -- created the foundation for success," Robinson says. Anderson Valley growers generally ferment the wines in classic, dry style for food friendliness with everything from Asian cuisine to pork roasts.
Increasingly, however, Anderson Valley pinot noirs also garner acclaim as world class.
"Pinot noir was not planted in the 1970s with the romanticism of trying to make red burgundy," Robinson says. "Rather, it was an experiment to determine what red varietal could ripen properly in this cool environment."
Eventually, identifying proper clones enabled Anderson Valley's pinot noir vines to thrive. But making terrific pinot noir wines still requires nimble vineyard work.
"Pinot noir's the most mercurial red varietal, so you have to listen to it and pay attention throughout the vintage," Handley says. "You have to find the balance of reasonable vigor to ripen the grapes without having too much sugar."
Terrific pinot noir, she says, should meld bright strawberry, raspberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit traits rather than overripe raisin flavors. Anderson Valley's relatively cool climate preserves grape acidity to create good opportunities for success.
Handley, Robinson and their colleagues will share more insights at upcoming events in the valley. The popular International Alsace Varietals Festival on Feb. 20 and 21 focuses on wines made from Anderson Valley's heritage grapes. On May 14 to 16, the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival also features open houses and tasting. Details: www.avwines.com
Meanwhile, enjoy:
2008 Handley Cellars Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, Calif. (Specialty 15800; $10.99): Fermentation in both stainless-steel tanks and large oak foudres creates complex citrus and honeysuckle aromas leading to round grapefruit and peach flavors with spicy nutmeg notes. Exhilarating acidity balances the creamy, dry finish. Highly recommended.
2008 Husch Vineyards Gewurztraminer "T-Bud Dry Cuvée," Anderson Valley (www.hushvineyards com/wineshop.htm; $17): The light straw color offers grapefruit and floral aromas opening to rich citrus flavors with spicy ginger notes. Zesty acidity and flinty mineral notes balance the dry, yet fruity finish. Highly recommended.
2007 Handley Cellars Pinot Noir, Mendocino County (Specialty 15799; $19.99): Highly recommended.