Wine of the Week: Loriñon Rioja Crianza Bodegas Breton 2005, $15.99-$17.99

Loriñon Rioja Crianza Bodegas Bretón 2005,
$15.99 - $17.99

It gets harder and harder in a global market to find wines that are unique, that speak of the place where they were made. Even the classic Old World regions like this week's Rioja have wineries that are making modern style wines so dense, concentrated and alcoholic that they could be from anywhere.

Not so for this delightfully drinkable, but decidedly Riojan red boasting cherry and cedar aromas and flavors with hints of dill and coconut from American oak. The tannins are smooth while providing structure for the fruit. Try it with a sausage pizza.

Certain production requirements must be met to use the Spanish wine classification crianza on the wine's label. In Rioja, a crianza wine must spend two years at the winery before release, with at least one of those years spent in oak. The oak is usually large, older American oak casks, which don't impart a lot of oak flavor but soften and round the wine. So, in effect, the winery ages the wine for you, adding a bit of complexity before it's ready to be sold, freeing your wine cabinet, closet or under-the-stairway cellar for even more wines.

Available at select Big Daddy's and Centennial Fine Wine & Spirits.

Rebecca Murphy