Vail Valley: Beer and wine reviews

2008 Dr. Loosen ‘Dr. L' Qba Riesling, $13.99
The vineyards of Germany's Mosel Valley are characterized by their incredibly steep, south-facing slopes, mineral-rich slate soil and favorable position near the river. Excellent drainage and the heat-retaining quality of the rocky slate soil are also important factors in producing fully ripe, concentrated wines. The combination of these elements results in racy, mineral-inflected Rieslings that are fruity, crisp and very refreshing to drink.

Before taking over his family's wine estate, Ernst Loosen made a pilgrimage to some of the most highly respected wineries in the world. It was his belief that before he could make world-class wines, he first had to understand what it is that makes a wine truly great. Through this voyage of discovery, Ernst developed the foundation for his own winemaking style, a style that is rooted in the authentic expression of the soil, the climate and the vines themselves.

This entry-level Loosen Riesling embodies the elegant and racy characteristics of steep, slate-soil Mosel vineyards at a very reasonable price. It is a bright, vibrant, fruit-driven wine made with grapes from contracted growers who work very closely with brothers Ernst and Thomas Loosen to achieve excellent quality and superb concentration in every vintage. Consistently one of the best values in German Riesling, the ‘Dr. L' bottling comes from steep vineyards on slate soils in the Mosel. Apples, peaches, and a nice acidity make this classic, off-dry wine the perfect introduction to what authentic German Riesling is all about. Try this with those spicy Asian dishes, which can be tricky to pair wine with.

You can find this wine at Avon Liquor, West Vail Liquor Mart and Beaver Liquors in Avon has it on order.

Kevin Lawrence, Avon Liquor

2006 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Reserve, $24.99
Not long ago I reviewed Martini's 2007 Sonoma Cab as an exceptional bottle for $24.99. Next up is another strong contender in the “Cabs You've Gotta Try” category: Louis M. Martini's 2006 Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, which comes in at around the same price. A fine example of the best of Cabs coming out of Napa, the 2006 Louis M. Martini has a beautiful nose with bright spices and a super-smooth finish. Elegant, nicely structured and perfectly balanced, this bottle has a bold flavor with plenty of fruit — but it doesn't overwhelm.

Compared to the Sonoma, the Napa is a bit earthier and less acidic, and both my wife and I liked it better. Either way, Louis M. Martini seems to have a good grip on how to make very nice Cabs for under $25 a bottle — it's a good label to remember the next time you're browsing the red aisle.

You can find this wine at Avon Liquors and Riverwalk Wine & Spirits in Edwards.

Alex Miller, Summit Daily Editor

Deschutes Brewery Red Chair NWPA, $8.99/six-pack
With the new year, the boys from Bend have rolled out a brand-new brew — Red Chair NWPA (Northwest Pale Ale). It's a winner.

Pale ales usually range from really hoppy to really, really, really hoppy. Red Chair stays on the “really hoppy” side, with a lot more balance than many pale ales. There's a rich, red color and a lacy head with plenty of flavor in the aroma.

When Red Chair hits your tongue, there's a good mix of malt — “seven select European and domestic malts,” the Deschutes press packet claims. All that malt does a fine job of smoothing out the hops.

I've been enjoying my share of Ska Brewing's brown ale over the holidays, and have become a bit spoiled by its smoothness and easy-drinking nature, so I was wondering what my brown ale-conditioned tastebuds would think of a pale. Red Chair isn't that smooth, but it's about as easy going down as a pale ale can be.

Vail Daily Copy Editor Krista Driscoll visited the Deschutes brewery on a road trip last summer, and was delighted to learn that Red Chair is now available in six-packs. As I recall, her response was “Sweet!”

While Deschutes has rolled out the new in 2010, the brewer has also announced it's retiring an old friend, Cinder Cone Red. To celebrate the transition, Deschutes sent along a six-pack split between Red Chair and Cinder Cone.

Looking at the specs, there's not much to choose between the two, possessing as they do identical alcohol by volume and “International Bittering Units.” The two beers do have distinct characters, though.

Cinder Cone has a little less character and sparkle in the head, and the hops are more pronounced, but it's easy to see why the brew has a core of loyal fans — who are encouraged to post their boozy farewells to Cinder Cone on the Deschutes Web site to win valuable prizes.

Whichever of these beers you can find at a friendly retailer, you won't be disappointed, but for me, make it a Red Chair.

You can find this beer at Beaver Liquors in Avon, Avon Liquors, Alpine Wine & Spirits in West Vail, West Vail Liquor Mart and Eagle Ranch Wine & Spirits.

Scott N. Miller, Daily Staff Writer