Chinese foods hold double meaning
Ingredients rich in symbolism focus on family, fertility and good fortune
|
Lychee Champagne granita (Bill Hogan, Chicago Tribune / January 17, 2010) |
What you do to mark the Year of the Tiger and V-Day on Feb. 14 is up to you, but a Chinese-themed meal does seem in order. Just don't expect a lot of Cupids to sprout up on a traditional Chinese menu stocked with foods and ingredients that have special meaning at the beginning of the new year.
"The Chinese aren't big on romance as a whole," said Laura Yee, a Chicago publicist, "but they do take fertility, marriage and building a family seriously, as expressed in the symbolic foods."
Just how deep the symbolism runs can be seen in a menu composed by Belinda Chang, wine director of The Modern restaurant in New York City. The dishes, all her mother's, make a clear statement: Marbled eggs cooked in tea (fertility), stir-fried spaghetti with vegetables (long strands for long life), red-cooked chicken (happiness, good fortune) and a whole bass (prosperity) cooked in hot oil with green onions and fermented black beans.
"It all worked on my dad; maybe it will work for me," Chang said.
For any lovers who strike out Sunday, there is a chance for a second shot Feb. 28. Chinese New Year is a 15-day celebration brought to a close by the Lantern Festival, which popularly is considered the Chinese Valentine's Day.
Valentine's Day with an Asian flare
TV's Ming Tsai has lots of ideas on how to merge the symbolism of the Chinese New Year and Valentine's Day. Top among them, duck and lychees.
"Duck symbolizes fidelity and the red color of this dish is the color of happiness," said Ming Tsai. "Pomegranates, because of their many seeds, symbolize fertility." Host of the long-running television cooking series, "Simply Ming," he likes to serve this dish with mashed sweet potatoes and blanched snow peas.
For dessert, he makes a lychee granita. "Lychee is considered a symbol of romance and love," said Tsai, owner of Blue Ginger restaurant in Wellesley, Mass. "There is also the school of thought that placing dried lychees under the marriage bed is a wish for many children."
Eating out
Two Chicago restaurants stand out in the celebration of the Year of the Tiger and Valentine's Day. They will offer special menus, entertainment, gifts and even free zoo memberships.
Ben Pao will mark Feb. 14 with its "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Aphrodisiacs" event. On the menu are appetizers made with Chinese herbs and foods considered to have aphrodisiacal properties and various sparkling wines. The event costs $30 per person, all inclusive. The action starts at 6 p.m. at the 52 W. Illinois St. restaurant. To reserve, call 312-222-1888 or visit benpao.com.
Big Bowl restaurants are offering a menu of "good luck" specials Feb. 11 to Feb. 15. Dishes include spicy roasted peanuts, blood orange ginger ale, tiger shrimp and chive dumplings, tea smoked duck with long noodles and Chinese chives and blood orange sorbet. Guests will get complimentary oranges, which symbolize wealth.
Gifts ranging from complimentary appetizer cards to a yearlong membership in a local zoo will be given away to all guests Feb. 14, and children will get the traditional red envelopes with a crisp dollar bill inside.
On Feb. 15, all guests born in the Year of the Tiger will get a free lunch or dinner. Tiger years include 1926, 1938, 1950, 1962, 1974, 1986, 1998 and 2010.
Making dumplings
Learn to make your own dumplings for the new year as the Chicago Chinese Cultural Institute sponsors a "family style" Chinese New Year celebration 4 p.m. Feb. 13 and Feb. 14 at Hing Kee Restaurant, 2140 S. Archer Ave. Z.J. Tong, the institute's founder and president, is the host.
Guests will learn how to make their own dumplings, learn how the Chinese celebrate the lunar new year and what traditions and symbols are associated with the holiday, and enjoy a meal.
Cost is $35 per person, $30 for institute members. Reservations are required. Go to the institute's Web site, chicagocci.com, to print a registration form and directions for payment. Registration ends Sunday. For more information, call 312-842-1988.
Hoisin-pomegranate glazed duck breast
Prep: 60 minutes Marinate: 1 hour Cook: 33 minutes Makes: 2 servings
"Duck symbolizes fidelity and the red color of this dish is the color of happiness," said Ming Tsai. "Pomegranates, because of their many seeds, symbolize fertility."
2 duck breasts, fat trimmed, skin scored
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup hoisin sauce
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
1 head garlic, finely chopped
1 pomegranate, seeded, optional
Chopped chives
Season duck with salt and pepper. Cook, skin-side down, in a skillet over medium-low heat until skin is browned and crispy, 20-25 minutes. Reserve duck fat for later use. Cool duck to room temperature.
Combine the hoisin sauce, pomegranate molasses, green onions, scallions and garlic in a nonreactive baking dish just large enough to hold the duck. Add the duck, turning to coat. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
Remove duck from marinade; cook and sear meat-side down over low-medium heat until medium-rare, 4-6 minutes. Turn; cook until skin is crispy, about 2 minutes. Remove to a cutting board to rest, skin-side up, 5 minutes. Slice each duck breast; fan on plates. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and chives.
Nutrition information: Per serving: 417 calories, 12% of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 138 mg cholesterol, 62 g carbohydrates, 31 g protein, 1,731 mg sodium, 6 g fiber
Lychee Champagne granita
Prep: 10 minutes Freeze: 6 hours or overnight Makes: 4 servings
Ming Tsai calls for Champagne here, but any sparkling wine can be used.
1 can (15 ounces) lychees, 3/4 cup syrup reserved
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 1/2 cups sparkling wine, plus more for serving
4 whole fresh or canned lychees, optional
Combine lychees, reserved syrup and lemon juice in a blender. Blend until smooth. Strain mixture into a bowl. Add sparkling wine; stir to combine. Pour mixture into baking dish; stir once. Freeze overnight. Scrape the granita, using the back of a fork; pile into chilled martini glasses. Top with more sparkling wine and a whole lychee, if desired.
Nutrition information: Per serving: 146 calories, 0% of calories from fat, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 22 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 7 mg sodium, 0 g fiber