Winemakers swallow honest advice

Learning how to make better wine is a good reason for a winemaker to attend a technical workshop.

The Southern Pinot Noir Workshop, held annually in Methven, has been running for 19 years, and the results show in the quality of New Zealand's acclaimed pinot noir.

But it is the six-year-old Syrah Workshop, held at the Chateau Tongariro, that draws the attraction of eastern and northern North Island winegrowers. Syrah is the rising star in these warmer regions.

Workshop entry is restricted to producers who can take along a sample of the most recent vintage's wine – this year 2009's. Wines are tasted incognito and discussed brutally and honestly. Having wine criticised and perhaps being humiliated is all part of the deal but the winemakers, both newbies and the experienced, say it is worth it. In fact, some may purposely take along a wine they are having trouble with to field suggestions on how it can be fixed, as well as experimental wines to gauge the feedback on a new stylistic direction.

Bruce and Linsey-Ann Taylor of Matakana's Contour Estate have been attending the workshop since 2006, and Linsey-Ann now holds the role of deputy convener.

Mr Taylor says in just five years he has seen the overall quality of the workshops improve immensely. When he first attended he noted about 50 percent of the wines received adverse comments. Last month, that number had reduced to around five percent.

"Nothing is commented on negatively, unless the negative can be turned into a positive," says Mr Taylor. "The remedy might be as simple as changing the type of barrel to give the wine more finesse before release. On the other hand, the problem may be serious and a winemaker may be told his winery needs disinfecting."

Wine of the Week

Contour Estate Matakana Syrah 2008, $38, is a luxurious wine with a deep red colour and aromas and flavours that are spicy, peppery, savoury and floral with sweet oak, a nuance of herb and a berry-filled finish.