Sales of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay to China had risen nearly three times

For the 5,000-strong crowd converging on September's Soweto Wine Fair, this year's event was a roaring success. The so-called "black diamonds", the country's prosperous new middle class, jostled shoulders in the festival's giant marquee as they tested the latest star attractions - new blends of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. The wines on offer are a source of great national pride. One woman told Africa Business Report: "I've just tasted the most amazing wine and it's South African. Our country is really getting it." 

In Western markets, the wine industry is in difficulty. As a discretionary purchase, a decent bottle of plonk is one of the first things that consumers cut back on when budgets are tight. But South African vintners have increasingly focused on new markets, and the plan has paid off. By the end of August, sales of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay to China had risen nearly three times on the same period last year, and the growing domestic market is strong.

Festival organiser Mnikelo Mangicipho told the BBC: "The winemakers had to go and tap into the untapped market, which is the black market. And fortunately we have the numbers. The more people you are exposing to these wines, the more the sales and the turnover of the winemakers increase." South Africa's trade with the rest of the world is powering ahead, almost oblivious to the events in the rest of the world economy. Exports increased to $4.4bn (￡2.7bn) in the first seven months of the year, according to government figures, a rise of almost a half on the same period in 2008.

Wine is seen as a key part of that success. The hope now is that 2010 will prove another record breaker. Ntsiki Biyela, a science graduate of Stellenbosch University and resident vintner at the Stellekaya boutique, has just won the title of South Africa's 'Woman wine maker of the year'.