Bordeaux 2009: Pauillac
With vineyards running from Saint-Julien in the south to Saint-Estèphe in the north, from the banks of the Gironde to back into Haut-Médoc country in the east, the style of Pauillac is varied, but in most cases dominated by the briary depth of Cabernet Sauvignon that gives a firmness that needs ageing. Alongside the habitual Pauillac vigour this year was a depth of ripeness that stayed on the palate, rather than being overwhelmed by firm tannins, although structure and grip was necessarily present for the long term. Many very impressive wines. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
(91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.7% Merlot) Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45. (19.5 points)
Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, wonderfully fragrant nose, rich and spicy and beautifully expressively textured fruit, plenty of extraction but pure harmony, vibrant and polished, seductive length and great future. Drink 2016-35. (18.5 points)
Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, big, smoky rich and exotic nose, lots of depth, robust vineyard structure and powerful yet harmonious length, all vigourous potential. Drink 2017-35. (18.5 points)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points)
Chateau Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50. (19.5 points)
Chateau Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30. (18.5 points)
Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 2009
Fine dark red, beautiful cassis nose, fragrant and plummy, silky/satiny texture, very seductive classy black fruits with good tannin back-up. Drink 2014-20. (17.5 points)
Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, smoky and concentrated blackcurrant fruit, rich succulent fruit with a thick velvety texture and quite firm tannins. Drink 2015-25. (16.5 points)
Chateau Clerc Milon, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Purple red, fine briary blackcurrant fruit, lots of earthy energy and an herbaceous lift to the naturally sweet density of fruit. Drink 2015-30. (17.5 points)
Chateau Batailley, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Dense red, good leafy blackcurrant nose, good broad plummy fruit, smooth texture attractive leathery spice and good length. Drink 2015-24. (16.5 points)
Chateau Haut-Batailley, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Dense red, big smoky cassis Cabernet Sauvignon nose, has seductive charm, great length and firm finish, a lovely wine. Drink 2015-25. (17.5 points)
Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, big, smoky, almost leathery fruit, really great purity and intensity of flavour and great freshness and depth, with the tannins perfectly absorbed. Drink 2016-35. (18 points)
Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, finely concentrated and rather tight black-currant fruit, a certain leafy leanness that is made up for by good middle concentration and length. Drink 2015-25. (17 points)
Chateau Lynch-Bages, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Dense purple red, concentrated Cabernet cassis plus rich spiciness, big volume on the palate, expressive elegance over the natural vigour, lifted and long. Drink 2015-30. (18 points)
Chateau d'Armailhac, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Dense purple red, lovely expression of ripe blackcurrant fruit, polished, classy, seductive and impressive, beautiful texture and length, totally charming Pauilac that will age well. Drink 2014-25. (17.5points)
Chateau Duhart Milon Rothschild, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Fine purple red, briary black fruits on the nose, really good but rather restrained on the palate, firm and complex, a classic Pauillac, beautifully structured with purity and length. Drink 2016-30. (18 points)
Reserve de la Comtesse, Pauillac 2009
Black red, big smoky wild violets nose, seductive fruit , fleshy and lifted, a really lovely Saint-Julien style Pauillac, all of a piece. Drink 2014-22. (17 points)
Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac 2009
Black red, great fragrance and precision on the nose, great depth of fruit and superb vineyard expression, ripeness, energy and grip over perfect tannins, very good indeed. Drink 2015-25. (18 points)
Chateau Pibran, Cru Bourgeois, Pauillac 2009
Purple red, big, seductive Merlot-dominated wine, spicy and fruity with rich flavours and good grip. Drink 2014-20. (16.5 points)
Les Carruades de Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 2009
Dense red, fine fragrant red/black fruits, firm and elegant structure, restrained, almost serious wine that promises a good future. Drink 2015-22. (17.5 points)
Chateau Bellegrave, Cru Bourgeois, Pauillac 2009
Good lifted fruit, quite forward with good Pauillac grip. Drink 2013-17. (15.5 points)
Chateau la Fleur Peyrabon, Cru Bourgeois, Pauillac 2009
Good colour, good supple fruit with some depth. Drink 2013-16. (15.5 points)
Les Tourelles de Longueville, Pauillac 2009
Dense red, lots of meaty fruit with good grip and length, rather massive and needs time to settle down. Drink 2014-20. (16-plus points)
Cuvee Pauillac de Latour, Pauillac 2009
Deep colour, wild violets nose, fine natural sweetness and impressive depth of fruit, attractive open style. Drink 2103-18. (16 points)
Chateau Pedesclaux, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Purple red, fragrant and quite lively nose, good middle sweetness, an attractively fleshy Pauillac, not overly structured but good elegant fruit. Drink 2014-20. (16-plus points)
Chateau Haut-Bages-Monpelou, Cru Bourgeois, Pauillac 2009
Good ripe fruit, quite forward, easy style. Drink 2012-16. (15 points)
Chateau Lynch-Moussas, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Dense red, good, quite forward autumnal blackcurrant fruit, attractively elegant, supple and charming. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Croizet-Bages, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, quite smoky, well-concentrated cassis nose, good depth of fruit and big fleshy wine, tannins still a bit raw. Drink 2015-24. (16 points)