Bordeaux 2009: Saint-Julien
Described by the great Bordeaux buffs of the past as 'quintessential claret', Saint-Julien manages to live up to its reputation in vintage after vintage. In 2009 the extra concentration from low-yielding ripe Cabernet Sauvignon has added richness and depth for long ageing, while fragrance, harmony and balance remain the hallmarks. Thanks to the perfect conditions at vintage time, picking dates were consistent throughout the appellation, taking place between 22nd September and 8th October. The châteaux are very true to their soil and style, with a vigour and energy not found in lesser vintages. The best will improve over three decades, perhaps more. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Deep purple red, naturally concentrated bouquet over really smooth, sophisticated fruit with a taffeta lift, great purity and depth of vineyard fruit, superb elegance and length. Drink 2018-40. (19 points)
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, very smoky, really concentrated nose, lots of extraction, massively structured, certainly a most impressive wine, one of the blockbusters of the vintage. Drink 2017-30. (18.5 points)
Chateau Leoville Barton, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Dense purple red, finely concentrated blackcurrant Cabernet nose with many layers of complexity, shows freshness above the controlled intensity of pure vineyard fruit, still shut in but a very great expression to come. Drink 2017-40. (19 points)
Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, rich and very impressive concentration of Cabernet cassis, robust and vigourous, seductively succulent fruit with superb natural tannin back up, a very exciting wine. Drink 2016-35. (18.5 points)
Chateau Langoa Barton, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, rich, intense black summer fruits, clear and precise with very good natural concentration and depth, expressively elegant, already showing great charm above the firmness. Drink 2015-28. (18 points)
Chateau Lagrange, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, concentrated and smoky blackcurrant fruit with a little herby lift, very good firm fruit, still quite tight, but concentration and balance assure a good future. Drink 2015-28. (17 points)
Chateau Branaire-Ducru, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Deep purple red, fragrant and precisely expressed Cabernet cassis, lovely depth of natural ripeness, a finely textured wine, already elegant and will age well. Drink 2015-28. (17.5 points)
Chateau Gloria, Saint-Julien 2009
Superb deep colour, seductively floral nose with wild violets, fresh, fleshy fruit with great depth and well-balanced length. Drink 2014-20. (17 points)
La Croix de Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, really good depth of fruit and totally polished Saint-Julien style with spice and grip due to high proportion of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2014-22. (17 points)
Chateau Saint-Pierre, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, elegantly concentrated blackcurrant fruit, quite leafy and lifted with a touch of licquorice spice, both floral and a little exotic, lovely rich, ripe fruit and good future. Drink 2015-25. (17.5 points)
Clos de Marquis, Saint-Julien 2009
Black red, smoky nose with deep, rather discreet fruit, great purity, quite reserved, extremely elegant. Drink 2014-20. (17 points)
Chateau Gruaud-Larose, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Dense purple red, rich, robust warm autumn fruits, smooth and succulent, a touch of exotic spice, fine balance and length. Drink 2015-30. (17.5 points)
Chateau Talbot, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Dense purple red, good earthy blackcurrant fruit, quite spicy, broad and open, very smooth texture and enough weight for the future. Drink 2014-22. (17 points)
Chateau Beychevelle, Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 2009
Deep purple red, fine crushed blackcurrants, attractive dense fruit and already a touch of complexity, good ripeness and depth, freshness and fine Saint-Julien elegance. Drink 2015-24. (17 points)
Chateau Lalande-Borie, Saint-Julien 2009
Purple red, deep fleshy, almost voluptuous fruit with good length and grip at the end. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau du Glana, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Julien 2009
Good deep colour, more extraction than finesse. Drink 2013-16. (15 points)
Chateau Moulin de la Rose, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Julien 2009
Dense red, fine Saint-Julien Cabernet fruit and elegant finish. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Le Petit Lion de Leoville Las-Cases 2009
Deep red, floral, fragrant nose with lovely balanced and finely expressed Cabernet fruit with Saint-Julien elegance. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)