Bordeaux 2009: Haut-Médoc
The Haut-Médoc appellation starts in the south, encompassing the cru classés of Cantemerle and La Lagune, and travels north to beyond Saint-Estèphe, so as in Saint-Emilion the styles are very varied. Cabernet Sauvignon still dominates, though Merlot is increasing and Cabernet Franc in places being phased out in favour of the more robust Petit Verdot. It is probably the most reliable appellation in Bordeaux in the sense that the soils are favourable, yet the wines still have to try their best to gain attention against their classed growth neighbours. 2009 was a boon to the Haut-Médoc: it allowed the châteaux to express themselves well and for the better ones, very well indeed. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Belle-Vue, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense colour, superb extraction of black berry fruits, fleshy and classy, very ripe, will mature well and impress. Drink 2013-20. (16.5 points)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense colour, floral and quite intense nose, good depth of fruit, elegant and long with character and grip and a very good future. Drink 2014-20. (17 points)
Chateau Caronne-Sainte-Gemme, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense colour, fine cassis and black fruits, smoky, classy nose, lots of depth and good potential complexity, good vineyard wine. Drink 2014-20. (16.5 points)
Chateau d'Agassac, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine fragrant lifted cassis nose, classy modern Cabernet fruit, very good expression of southern Médoc fruit, classy and classic. Drink 2013-18. (16.5 points)
Chateau Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc 2009
Deep purple red, very attractive nose of fragrant black fruits with elegant intensity, slightly smoky oak, finely textured, lovely classy southern Médoc. Drink 2014-22. (17 points)
Chateau Belgrave, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc 2009
Black red, concentrated blackcurrant fruit, slightly smoky, very rich and terrific natural depth, fragrant and succulent on the palate, floral, fleshy and firm with fine vineyard definition. Drink 2014-20. (16.5 points)
Chateau la Tour Carnet, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc 2009
Black red, colour sticks to the glass, concentrated blackcurrant fruit with lifted florality, quite thick texture, tannins to back it up, needs time to open up and has good potential. Drink 2015-25. (16.5 points)
Chateau la Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc 2009
Purple red, lovely Cabernet cassis nose, already pure and quite forward, silky texture with savoury, almost lush fruit that really enrobes the tannins, fresh and harmonious and will evolve beautifully. Drink 2014-24. (17.5 points)
Chateau Cissac, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good grippy fruit, still a bit tough, a structured, classic Médoc. Drink 2014-19. (15.5 points)
Chateau Labat, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense red, fine purity of fruit over good oak, both fleshy and firm, quite exciting modern Médoc. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau d'Arcins, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good colour, fresh and fruit with good grip. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Barreyres, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine expression of good ripe fruit in a clean, modern style. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Lamothe Bergeron, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Quite floral, lifted fruit, shows ripeness of its 60% Merlot, elegant balance, very attractive wine. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Bernadotte, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense red, good spicy, supple rich fruit, good fleshy length, quite seductive and good tannins to keep it going. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau Lanessan, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good smoky cassis nose and flavours that show its proximity to Saint-Julien, good balance, length and class. Drink 2014-20. (16-plus points)
Chateau d'Arche, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense colour, good fleshy, classy fruit. Drink 2012-16. (16 points)
Chateau Clement-Pichon, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine smoky new oak cassis nose, fleshy, well-made quite broad flavoured wine. Drink 2012-16. (16 points)
Chateau Larrivaux, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense red and dense black fruits, good supple broadness on the palate and good length. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Cambon La Pelouse, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good smooth fruit, quite full and seductive, good modern Médoc. Drink 2012-16. (16 points)
Chateau du Moulin Rouge, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good supple fruit, good spice and some class. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Charmail, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense red, good fleshy blackcurrant fruit, good tannins, very well made. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Senejac, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine floral yet quite discreet nose, elegant and poised, will be a lovely wine, a bit understated now. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau Maurac, Les Vignes de Cabaleyran, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Very good crushed blackcurrant fruit, very good oak, aiming for a Cru Classé and almost there with finesse and depth. Drink 2013-17. (16-plus points)
Chateau Verdignan, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Attractively balanced wine that lacks some of the 2009 opulence. Drink 2013-16. (15 points)
Chateau Mille Roses, Haut-Medoc 2009
Black red, fine extraction of very good ripe fruit, good natural tannins, a classy, nicely structured wine. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau de Gironville, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense black red, smoky cassis and very modern southern Médoc fruit, a polished and savoury wine. Drink 2012-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau d'Aurilhac, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Black red, good spicy fruity wine with warmth and depth. Drink 2013-16. (16 points)
Chateau Bel-Orme-Tronquoy-de-Lalande, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good crushed fruit and good Saint-Estèphe style grip and length, very good Haut-Médoc. Dirnk 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau Pontoise Cabarrus, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense colour, good grip and length, quite serious fleshy/firm wine. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
Chateau Real, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good fresh style with crunchy fruit, class and elegance. Drink 2012-16. (16 points)
Chateau du Retout, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Deep colour, fine floral nose, quite classy clear Médoc fruit. Drink 2013-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Maucamps, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Lots of good, fleshy, savoury black fruits, smooth and good length. Drink 2012-16. (16 points)
Chateau de Lamarque, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Purple red, ripe autumnal black berries, quite complex, earthy flavours, very good middle sweetness, already charmingly vigorous with depth and complexity to come. Drink 2014-20. (16-plus points)
Chateau Beaumont, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine deep red, good, slightly herbaceous cassis fruit, good elegant flavours and good Médoc grip, classic quite forward Médoc with good pure fruit. Drink 2013-18. (15.5 points)
Chateau Malescasse, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Deep red, fresh Cabernet berry fruit, good straightforward Médoc. Drink 2013-18. (15 points)
Chateau Coufran, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine dense red, nicely concentrated black cherry fruit, good fleshy, succulent, briary ripeness, quite classy finish and good length. Drink 2014-20. (16 points)
Chateau Camensac, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc 2009
Deep purple red, slightly smoky blackcurrant nose, well-extracted fruit with firmness and elegant Médoc finish. Drink 2014-20. (16 points)
Chateau Villegeorge, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense red, good depth of spicy, proper Médoc fruit, a really well-made wine, classy and classic Haut-Médoc. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau Saint-Paul, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good plummy cassis fruit, good flavour and grip. Drink 2013-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Bonneau, Haut-Medoc 2009
Black red, classy nose with 57% of ripe and fleshy Merlot, firm finish and good balance. Drink 2013-18. (15.5 points)
Chateau Ramage la Batisse, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Nice, soft and plummy fruit, good oak, quite forward. Drink 2012-16. (15 points)
Chateau Peyrabon, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good deep Médoc flavours with some of Saint-Julien elegance. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
Chateau de Malleret, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Fine elegant wine, classy and supple, quite forward. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Paloumey, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Dense colour and lots of fruit, big seductive southern Médoc, good length. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
Chateau Reysson, Cru Bourgeous, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good depth of rich, quite lifted fruit, classic modern Médoc. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
Chateau Citran, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Black red, quite intense blackcurrant nose, slightly smoky oak, quite broad and open. Drink 2013-18. (15.5 points)
Chateau Doyac, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good red-black fruits and good firm elegance and length. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Larose-Trintaudon, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good dense colour and fruit, a polished, broad flavoured Médoc. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
Chateau Hourtin Ducasse, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Good clear wine with good fresh fruit and length. Drink 2012-17. (15.5 points)
Chateau Hanteillan, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2009
Nice, quite light and easy, supple wine. Drink 2012-16. (15 points)