Bordeaux 2009: Listrac-Moulis-Médoc

The wines of Listrac are getting better and better. More concentration on the fruit and less on the tannins has brought an elegance to what in the past was a rather rustic Médoc. As a result they are approachable younger and, while rarely possessing the fleshy charm of their neighbour Moulis, they retain a good firmness. 2009 suited Listrac well and while there are few candidates for long ageing, they do have fine precision of fruit for the medium term. In Moulis meanwhile, with plumminess from the Merlot and structure from the Cabernet and vineyards just a touch warmer than those of Listrac, 2009 was very much in the Moulis mould. Yet while the wines are for the most part supple, rounded and full of Médoc fruit, I found fewer high points here than in the past - they are attractive, true to their appellation and will give much pleasure over the medium term. Steven Spurrier

Chateau Poujeaux, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Black red, very rich and spicy, even exotic berry fruit, good smooth rich flavours backed by firm ripe tannins, lots of depth and good long-term. Drink 2014-22. (16.5 points)
 
Clos des Demoiselles, Listrac 2009

Fine, polished and sophisticated Listrac, good classy micro-cuvee with all the roughness smoothed out. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
 
Chateau Saransot-Dupre, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Fine fragrant fruit and really elegant for Listrac, good length, fruit, balance and complexity. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
 
Chateau Lalaudey, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Dense colour, good lifted fruit, quite classy Moulis. Drink 2013-16. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Anthonic, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Rich colour and fruit, good wine with style and class. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
 
Chateau Fourcas-Hosten, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Purple red, quite good berry fruit, some classy potential, but still needs to knit together. Drink 2013-17. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Lestage, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Good cassis fruit, good balance, nicely made, quite forward. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Lafon, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Quite lean in the classic Listrac style, but good fruit. Drink 2013-16. (15 points)
 
Chateau Cap Leon Veyrin, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Good colour, good soft fruit, more Moulis than Listrac. Drink 2012-15. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Mayne Lalande, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Fine expression of cassis fruit, very well-made, elegant Listrac with a good future. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
 
Chateau la Garricq, Moulis 2009

Black red, good smoothly extracted wine, quite thick but will gain finesse. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)
 
Chateau Maucaillou, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Good plummy, direct fruit, supple and rounded, natural acidity, forward style. Drink 2013-17. (15 points)
 
Chateau Malmaison, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Good well-made wine, nice touch of oak, smooth and elegant. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Brillette, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Ripe fruit with precision and depth, a classic, smooth, savoury Moulis. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
 
Chateau Biston-Brillette, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Big savoury wine, plummy and supple with nice touch of oak. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
 
Chateau Clarke Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Purple red, nicely concentrated fragrant fruit, quite supple and rich on the palate, good tannins and refreshing acidity, forward fruit but will last well. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
 
Chateau Fonreaud, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Deep purple red, quite vigorous fruit, good vineyard earthiness with nice patina of deep, smooth fruit, fresh acidity, good balance. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
 
Chateau Chasse-Spleen, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Deep red, well-extracted Cabernet fruit, some fragrance and a touch leathery, still very firm, shows good structure and length, a serious wine for aging. Drink 2014-20. (16 points)
 
Chateau Branas Grand Poujeaux, Moulis 2009

Dense colour, good crunchy fruit, supple richness and good structure and length. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
 
Chateau Moulin a Vent, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2009

Good soft fruit, nice smooth, elegant style. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Fourcas-Dupre, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2009

Black red, slightly smoky nose over ripe Cabernet berry fruit, quite firm and structured with a touch of greenness that needs to soften. Drink 2013-17. (15.5 points)
 
Chateau Fourcas-Borie, Listrac 2009

Good deep colour, good crunchy fruit, spice and good fleshy length for Listrac. Drink 2013-17. (16 points)