Bordeaux 2009: Graves & Pessac-Léognan (red)
The northern Graves, Pessac-Léognan, often falls between the two stools of the Libournais, with its early ripening Merlot, and the Médoc, with its late-ripening Cabernet. Sometimes there is a hint of greenness to the reds due to the higher proportion of Cabernet Franc than in the Médoc, which ripens less well on the cooler soils of the Left Bank. 2009 brought ripeness for both the Cabernets, which kept their elegance to blend well with the more earthy Merlots, producing wines with vigour and freshness. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Pape-Clement, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, excellent extraction of beautifully concentrated ripe blackcurrant fruit, great suppleness on attack and a beautiful fragrance, great polish, class and depth. Drink 2017-35. (18.5 points)
Chateau Haut-Bailly, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense purple red, quite rich cassis fruit with fragrant wild roses concentration, great clarity, depth and precision over succulently ripe vineyard fruit, still quite reserved, a wine of undeniable beauty and class. Drink 2015-30. (18.5 points)
Chateau Haut-Brion, 1er Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, satiny smooth expression of pure fruit, rich and velvety texture with firm tannins that show up after the concentrated fragrance of pure vineyard fruit, beautiful structure and almost massive for Haut-Brion, but this robustness will assure a great and fascinating future. Drink 2016-45. (19.5 points)
Chateau la Mission Haut-Brion, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, marvellously intense expression of black fruits on the nose, slightly smoky with pure vineyard density and breed, magnificent structure, even slightly lush middle, great definition and length. Drink 2018-40. (19 points)
Chateau Olivier, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense purple red, summery black berry fruits with fine autumnal ripeness, quite broad, nicely concentrated palate, good fragrance, personality, depth and length. Drink 2016-25. (17.5 points)
Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, superbly concentrated purity of cassis fruit, then fragrant and slightly smoky lift, freshness runs through the precise intensity of vineyard fruit, a brilliantly expressed and focussed wine that needs time to open up. Drink 2018-35. (18 points)
Chateau Carbonnieux, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognon 2009
Purple red, very attractive,, slightly smoky, blackcurrant fruit, clear and good freshness, very northern Graves with slight earthiness with good clarity and depth, an elegant wine. Drink 2014-20. (17 points)
Domaine de Chevalier, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, fine intensity of fragrant Cabernet fruit, touch of wild roses, concentrated yet already showing potential complexity, beautifully expressed palate with density and fragrance and a taffeta aspect that adds lift to its succulent elegance and class. Drink 2015-30. (18 points)
Chateau les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense purple red, concentrated and rather earthy blackcurrant nose, good broad fruit with warmth and vigour, natural tannins and acidity need to blend in with the fleshy charm and depth. Drink 2015-25. (17 points)
Chateau la Louviere, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense purple red, well-extracted and quite intense blackcurrant fruit, nice depth of earthiness alongside the fragrant and ripe middle palate, good structure and length. Drink 2016-25. (17 points)
Chateau Bouscaut, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognon 2009
Black red, very good crushed berries and tobacco leaf nose, fine intensity of very ripe fruit, quite vigourous, smoky flavours, good density and grip, needs time to balance out. Drink 2015-25. (16.5 points)
Chateau de Fieuzal, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense black red, powerful, smoky cassis nose, lots of concentration,flesh and grip, good intensity of very ripe fruit, good future. Drink 2015-25. (17 points)
Chateau Latour-Martillac, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, well-concentrated cassis fruit with good florality, fine earthy/leafy/fleshy palate, with good length, presence and grip, has both vigour and class. Drink 2016-28. (17.5 points)
La Chapelle de la Mission-Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Deep red, lovely fragrant crushed berry nose, fine expression of vigourous ripe fruit, tannins present but will blend in, dry, herby style which will open up with restrained elegance. Drink 2014-20. (17 points)
La Clarence de Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Deep velvety purple red, rich satiny-smooth, polished plummy ripe fruits, distinctive flavours combining vigour, finesse and seductive charm. Drink 2015-25. (17.5 points)
Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense red, fine rich and wonderfully succulent and briary wild fruits nose, rich, robust vineyard fruit with internal spice, energy and depth. Drink 2016-30. (18 points)
Chateau La Garde, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, deep crushed black fruit nose, well-expressed briary fruit with good extract, middle and length, very ripe grapes backed by good vineyard character. Drink 2013-20. (16.5 points)
Chateau Pique-Caillou, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense purple red, nose of freshly crushed blackcurrants with an attractive leafiness, good purity and elegance, succulence and good tannins, an attractive, quite forward wine. Drink 2014-20. (16 points)
Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense red, leafy blackcurrant fruit, good density and good tannins, needs to soften the rather raw tannins. Drink 2015-20. (16 points)
Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, concentrated tobacco leaf cassis fruit, good concentration and vigour, has a greenness that needs to soften. Drink 2014-20. (16 points)
Chateau de France, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, nicely concentrated and smoky cassis nose, good leafy northern Graves fruit, good depth, still shows a touch of green. Drink 2014-18. (16 points)
Chateau Branon, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, big smoky Havana tobacco nose, full and with quite grippy Cabernet fruit, but good structure and will age well. Drink 2014-20. (16-plus points)
Chateau de Rochemorin, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Fine deep colour, good lifted fruit in a supple style with fragrance and easy depth. Drink 2012-16. (15.5 points)
Chateau Brown, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red fragrant floral nose, good blackcurrant/tobacco leaf fruit, density and length. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Gazin-Rocquencourt, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Purple red, excellent cassis fruit and good smoky Cabernet Franc lift, fully ripe but elegant and savoury, lovely style, very well made. Drink 2013-17. (16-plus points)
Chateau Ferrande, Graves 2009
Deep red, nicely concentrated fruit, quite earthy with good depth, slightly raw finish. Drink 2013-18. (15 points)
Chateau Magneau, Graves 2009
Good depth of fruit and good grip. Drink 2012-15. (15.5 points)
Chateau de Chantegrive, Graves 2009
Plummy red, good crushed berry fruit, fragrant and floral, good flesh and good grip. Drink 2013-18. (16 points)
Chateau Saint-Jean-des-Graves, Graves 2009
Fresh crushed berry fruit with good tannins, an attractive wine. Drink 2012-15. (15 points)
Chateau Rahoul, Graves 2009
Deep red, well-extracted, tobacco leaf cassis nose, good ripe fruit, a bit raw and fruit needs to dominate. Drink 2013-17. (14.5 points)
Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Purple red, fine, slightly smoky black berry fruits, dense, plummy, good character, structure and lift. Drink 2013-18. (16-plus points)
Chateau Couhins-Lurton, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Dense red, attractively aromatic red summer fruits, crushed red/black fruit on the palate, elegant and expressive, nice smooth texture, good fresh acidity, will show well quite early on. Drink 2012-17. (16 points)