Osteria 2350, provides casual, affordable dining in the Strip District

Chef Greg Alauzen's name has long been associated with upscale restaurants in Pittsburgh, including Eleven Contemporary Kitchen, where he was the opening chef, and most recently the Italian chophouse, Cioppino, both in the Strip District.

But he has long wanted to open a more casual spot, the kind of place someone can get "a salad, a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine for $20," he said.

Osteria 2350, which opened next to Cioppino in September, is just that kind of place. Mr. Alauzen and chef di cucina Joe Belardi have crafted a simple menu of antipasti, salads, sandwiches and pastas, complemented by a small selection of Italian wines.

Start with a spread of antipasti -- inexpensive, ample and delicious. The vegetable selection is especially pleasing, chunks of sweet roasted parsnips ($2), a generous bowl of lightly marinated olives showing the reds, greens and browns of the Mediterranean ($3).

Almost paper-thin slices of grilled eggplant, marinated in olive oil and vinegar and perhaps a whisper of garlic, are tender and silky, perfectly cooked ($2).

These are really meant to be eaten alongside a glass of wine. Best to go in on a bottle -- the options are more interesting, although there are still fairly few. Or, bring your own. At the moment, the corkage is only $5 (although it always pays to call ahead and check).

Service was a little haphazard, in part because servers made a point of not writing down orders. If bread doesn't arrive promptly, ask for some. It was just a simple Italian loaf, but came with a dish of bright green, flavorful olive oil, heavily seasoned with garlic and parsley.

And you'll want the bread to go along with the platter of cured meats, sourced from nearby Parma Sausage Products.

Thin sheets of prosciutto and rounds of sweet sopressata, salami rustico and coppa secca tasted freshly sliced. Slabs of fresh mozzarella were a surprise bonus. The large platter will amply supply four diners ($4, $8, $12 for small, medium and large platters).

The menu includes a handful of sandwiches, but it's better to simply assemble your own, sandwiching together a few slices of bread with some cured meats, a few roasted peppers, perhaps a slice or two of that wonderful eggplant.

There are salads too, although these were a little less consistent. Rapini was blanched, but never properly dried, so its dressing of hot pepper oil and pecorino simply slid right off ($3). On another visit, it was doused in oil, and tasted wet and greasy.

Roasting rather than blanching the rapini would solve this problem and result in a beautifully Italian dish.

A brash mix of radicchio and endive with thinly sliced red onion and grapefruit segments needs a little toning down ($4). Dressing a citrus-garnished salad with just olive oil is a clever, and no doubt authentic, idea.

More assertive seasoning and the addition of a slightly sweeter note would likely have balanced out the flavors.

The arugula was the best, the slightly spicy leaves set off by tangy gorgonzola, sweet roasted red peppers and a well balanced balsamic vinaigrette ($3).

It's hard to go wrong with any of the pastas, which tend toward rich, comforting flavors perfect for these blustery nights. Some are made in-house, others by Fede Pasta Co. in North Huntingdon.

Robust rigatoni are well matched by a hearty tomato-based sauce with sweet sausage and chunks of braised pork, garnished with a decadent spoonful of fresh ricotta ($12). Fresh pasta seemed a slightly odd choice for the classic duo of spaghetti and meatballs, but it worked well enough, and the meatballs themselves were tender and beefy ($12).

There are ample vegetarian options as well, including riccolina with roasted mushrooms, lightly wilted arugula, and just a touch of truffle oil ($10). Beautifully formed, house-made cavatelli shone in a simple, brothy sauce garnished with bits of rapini and roasted carrot, finished with some grated pecorino ($10).

Then there's the gnocchi, a luxurious dish of feather-light dumplings baked with fontina, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a hint of tomato sauce ($12), just the thing to take the edge off a bad day.

Desserts were slightly disappointing, from a dry cheesecake to biscotti without any real crunch. But there was a wonderful cannoli ($2.50), the crisp shell filled with slightly sweetened ricotta perfumed with lots of orange zest, the ends dipped in chopped pistachios and shredded chocolate.

At these prices, one shouldn't expect a lavish dining room, but for the most part the space is appealing.

Wooden farmhouse style tables and small, square marble tables are substantial and attractive. Paper menus are used as place mats and large tea lights gleam from rustic jars filled with dried beans. Wine is served in good-quality glasses of an all-purpose style that works well for both reds and whites.

Bright, overhead lights, however, are a problem. They have a chilling effect on the atmosphere, especially when the restaurant isn't already crowded.

Turn them down, and I expect Pittsburgh diners will quickly discover a lovely new spot equally suited to enjoying a snack and a few glasses of wine or a tasty, casual, impressively affordable meal.