Argentinian wines on the rise

RECENTLY on invitation of the very active Argentinian Ambassador, the honorable Joaquin Daniel Otero, I attended Wines of Argentina at the Turf Room of the Manila Polo Club in McKinley Road, Forbes Park, Makati City. Admittedly, it started off like a bad evening. The mind boggling monstrous traffic that night caused me over two grueling hours of travel time from my Quezon City place. Though expected because of the incessant raining that early afternoon onwards, it was still at least half an hour longer than the usual “rainy day’’ driving time to Makati. Then again, having read that car sales are up 33 percent this year, somehow I fear that this type of road gridlock is bound to become more regular, with or without the rain. Ouch! Anyway, back to the Argentinian Wine Event, I was extremely exhausted by the time I reached the venue. It was past 8:00 in the evening when I arrived, and the cocktail food was almost empty, but there were plenty of wines around. And it was the wines that I came for after all.

Growth of Argentinian wines

Argentinian wines have been growing in the country consistently for the past decade. As of last year 2009, based on National Statistics Office (NSO) numbers, Argentina ranked 7th in wine country of import origin, with a market share of almost three percent (2.93 percent to be exact). Import volume last year reached 285,331 liters, up 21 percent. And import value in US dollar was up to $370,000, a very decent +27 percent—this despite the local wine industry being practically flat last year vs. 2008. Wine imports from Argentina log only behind wine shipments from the US, Spain, Australia, France, Chile and Italy in this order.

Worldwide, Argentinian wines have also been growing continuously. Based on official numbers from Argentina (Source: Vinos de Argentina A.C.), total export of bottled wines from Jan. to Sept. this year is up 11.5 percent against same period of 2009, achieving 146,846,060 liters so far. Asia is up 16.6 percent in export volume, but contributes only 3.6 percent of the country’s total bottled wine export. The US is still the top export market with a huge 32 percent share of total bottled wine export. Argentina’s proudest varietal, the Malbec (usually just a supporting Bordeaux varietal), is not surprisingly, the country’s most popular varietal with over 46 percent of all bottled varietal wines exported. In fact, as of this year, Malbec export has grown over 32 percent against 2009—almost triple the pace of total export rate.

Six wine importers were present at the event to showcase their respective Argentinian brands:Terry’s Selection, Werdenberg, Brumms, Philippine Wine Merchant, Rams and Future Trade. When I saw oenologist and restaurateur Carlos de Terry of Terry’s Selection, he immediately recommended that I try his Fabre Montmayou Gran Reserve Malbec. One whiff alone of this wine and my acrimony of the horrendous traffic was immediately behind me. That’s what good wines can do… take ones bad mood away.

I did not take a lot of wines—11 different types only, but the following ones below, I thoroughly enjoyed. And one thing I can truly say, Argentinian wines, especially the higher-tiered ones, are extremely good, and ever improving. Price is also relatively cheaper than their French and Californian counterparts.

Tasting notes

Fabre Montmayou Gran Reserva 2008 Malbec —according to Terry, this wine has been oaked in brand new French barrels for 12 months; very enticing nose of toffee, overripe berries, licorice, deeply flavored, full bodied, semi-dry with bitter sweet tannins at the end, alcohol is a bit noticeable too, and upon checking is in fact 14.5 percent’

Febre Montmayou Gran Vin 2006—a blend with 85 percent Malbec, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and five percent Merlot, and is the winery’s top premium wine; `Powerful nose, enormous fruit power that is relentless, full bodied, with capsicum, plums and vanilla flavors, long and supple on the finish’

Finca Flichman Expresiones 2007 Malbec-Cabernet—a 60 percent Malbec, 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon blend; `strong berry jam nose, cedary, supple tannins that are creamy, great flavor length on the palate and complex flintiness at the end’

Finca Flichman Paisaje de Tupungato 2006—a Bordeaux blend composed of majority Cabernet Sauvignon 70 percent, with Malbec and Merlot; `a very unique rhubarb fruit nose, dark fruits, rich on the palate, drier than most Argentinian wines, nice spiciness, and a long cinnamon-like lingering finish’

The Fabre Montmayou wines can be found at Terry’s Selection, while Finca Flinchman wines are available at all Santi’s Delicatessen Shops.

For comments, inquiries, wine event coverage, wine consultancy and other wine related concerns, please e-mail me at protegeinc@yahoo.com. You can also follow me on twitter at www.twitter.com/sherwinlao.