To-die-for dinners and drinks in the sky

Having recently celebrated its eighth anniversary with a typically trendy party for its legions of loyal fans, V9 has undeniably matured into a definitive wine bar and restaurant. Combining exemplary interpretations of all the essentials of the genre with the special ingredients that make Bangkok so unique, especially the gorgeous city skyline views afforded by its privileged 37th floor elevation, it's no wonder so many discerning imbibers and diners call it their "local".

But while certain wines, cocktails, bar snacks and cuisines are permanent features, thereby providing the reassuring familiarity of a second home, the establishment's high-achieving management also works hard to keep things fresh by regularly innovating new dishes and drinks.

On the liquid refreshments front, lots of variety and innovative ideas are ensured by V9's arrangement with Wine Connection which is basically allowed to set up shop at the venue to sell wines both for drinking there and taking home from constantly re-selected sources all over the world. It's a great way to discover the latest sensation from Chile, find the best years from France or experiment with something family-farmed on a remote hillside in Australia or Italy.

On any given evening, the extensive wine cellar that greets you as soon as you turn the corner from the elevator into the edgy red on black, faut paint-bespattered entrance, you can browse over 150 New and Old World wines from pretty much everywhere you can imagine.

And that's not all. Being housed within a 5-star Sofitel property, V9 is also keyed into "Voyage du Vin" a special wine program where the globe-bestriding hospitality chain's highly-paid wine specialists make their picks of the best wines available anywhere and present the labels to customers everywhere from HQ in Paris to Chicago to Hanoi and, of course, Bangkok.

As with the Wine Connection wines, don't necessarily confuse the extra effort and guru-qualified commendations with expense. Sure there are rarities of the high-priced kind but there are also quite as many wines overlooked by other major buyers that marry outstanding quality with equally remarkable economy.

The current selection includes four French wines, two from New Zealand and one each from Italy, Chile, South Africa, Argentina, Australia and even China, though the latter is so far only available in Sofitel's China hotels.

If it all sounds a bit too much choice, don't worry. V9's sommelier is ever on-hand to help you select the perfect wine for your mood or the wine that best suits particular dishes on the extensive V9 gourmet menu. Depending how keen you are, he will also describe to you the history, character, type of grapes used and the process employed in producing the wine. Just as importantly, he will let you in on the best time to drink the wine.

As a further aid to exploration, V9 very helpfully offers a variety of Wine Flights consisting of three sample glasses of wine measuring around a third of a glass each and charged as one glass. Five different Flights are available; full-bodied, champagne, crescendos of reds and whites and a world tour, with the actual wines varying according to the latest arrivals.

And let's not neglect to mention V9's very capable barmen who have recently notched several awards for their concoctions, both classics and new creations, from five variations of Mojitos and Margaritas to all-new numbers involving every spirit and mixer under the sun like Roses are Red, Ritzy in Bangkok, Sleep on Me, Beyond Paradise and Bussarakam.

Obviously, the drinks selection is quite a draw and if that's all you're after you'll feel right at home. If you fancy a smoke with your drinks, that's alright too: V9 incorporates a glass-walled area where the windows are left open like an upscale version of an airport smoker's lounge.

But if you like to combine food and wine, then you are equally in your element as the menu is specially created with fulsome enjoyment of both liquids and solids in mind and with the goal of consistently achieving with the latter the same exalted levels of excellence as the very finest vintages offered.

Executive Chef Boris Cuzon is the current mastermind behind the best of what he terms New World cuisine. With his French background, he thrives on highlighting the quality of the produce used to create each exceptional dish, whether delicate fish and seafood recipes, the best cuts of imported meat, light and healthy appetizers or succulent desserts.

As with the wines, diners have the option of sampling smaller portions of a range of dishes for the price of one by virtue of V9's unique tapas-style Tasting Trees. Presented on a multi-tiered 'tree', you can choose from different Trees that represent culinary delights from various parts of the world. All are available in small or large sizes and there's also a smaller snack tree.

However, full portion dishes are also well worth exploring with several good examples on the new menu Boris has only just released.

For a suggestion, start with a salad of Canadian lobster, immaculately deshelled, presented over a bed of micro greens, garnished with papaya, mango, rocket and passion fruit seeds and drizzled with a dressing of vanilla bean, black pepper, grape seed oil and rice vinegar. The combination of wonderfully fresh, superbly soft lobster with the aromatic mystery of fresh vanilla and the subtle sweetness of the fruits is a killer.

There's also a stunning new soup, a bisque made not with lobster or prawns but Alaskan King crab leg. Apparently, you can grind and roast the crab shell for the essential seafood stock in much the same way as the conventional versions, even to the extent of producing a similar reddy colour, thou more yellow-red than orangey-red. Not content with that, however, Boris takes it a step further by adding in the meat of the crab leg as well, along with tomato, onion and garlic, resulting in a fabulously smooth broth that is sheer bliss.

A couple of the new entrees are also apropos.

Fish-lovers will not be able to resist a new dish of steamed snow fish steak over fresh angel hair squid ink pasta with pesto sauce and crispened water cress garnish. The fresh basil and pine nuts of the pesto turns out to be a perfect foil for the delicacy of the protein-rich snow fish while the pasta provides just the right textural contrast and carb input.

Meat-eaters may plump instead for a wonderful Australian veal tenderloin dish where two fat, superbly lean and tender steaks are roasted in garlic and olive oil and presented in their jus with micro greens, potato crisps and a contrastingly fruity piperade of capsicums, an indigenous dish to the South of France.

That all just about leaves space for a dessert with the new vanilla bean panna cotta drizzled with a reduction of port with blackberries, raspberries and blue berries particularly notable. The vanilla in the panna cotta is joined by cinnamon and star anise for a subtle yet concentrated flavour and firm but smooth consistency. A circular tuile of cashew nut and Szechuan pepper corns gives a crunchy contrast to what is an ideal end to such a meal.

As for the ambience, subtle colours and soft lighting at V9 let you focus your attention outside on the amazing views of the Chao Phraya River on one side, and Bangkok's busy business district on the other. Lounge music at V9 plays in the background so you can still enjoy conversation and relax.

Looking at the walls doesn't get tiring either as art exhibitions by local and foreign artists rotate regularly and the best thing is that all the art from exhibitions is available for purchase.

A feast for all the senses, then, and always a great place to dine on some of Bangkok's finest cuisine and party hearty into the wee hours.

Open Daily Bar: 5:00 pm - 2:00 am

Dinner: 6:00 pm - 1130 pm

Tasting Trees: 5:00 pm - 00.30 am