Spotlight on Burgundy

It is universally agreed that drinking excessively young vintages of great wines almost always amounts to a waste. I often feel a tinge of guilt when put in the situation of tasting a too-young wine, because in doing so, I would miss the most precious and interesting part of the wine-tasting process. My first experience in vintage Burgundies dates back to 1996, when I first tasted the 1966 Remoissenet Chambertin, which really opened up new horizons for me. 1966 is not a particularly outstanding year, but is nonetheless fascinating, with notes of fresh strawberries, herbs, earth and leather. Subsequently, a bottle of 1969 Bonnes Mares took me to an entirely new world. At once mature and energetic, it possessed qualities which cannot be realized in young vintages. With these magnificent wines I began my journey of adventure, and explored various vintages, grades and vineyards. To be honest, not all Burgundy vintages are sublime; but on the whole, great vintages such as the 1945, as well as great winemakers left truly unforgettable memories in my mind.

Tasting Burgundy vintages which are over 20 years old can often bring a pleasant surprise. If you are adventurous, you can explore some vintages which are not generally considered great, for example the 1972 Burgundy, which according to Michael Broadbent is a fine example of an underrated wine which is capable of surprise. Treasures of the great vintages, for instance the 1937, often transcend our expectations. Burhound thinks that the 1937 Richebourg from DRC is suitable for drinking until 2030 – a period spanning over 90 years since its production. Other great vintages worth collecting are 1929, 1937, 1945, 1949, 1959, 1961, 1969 and 1978, among others.

Older Burgundy vintages not only have a lasting appeal for the discerning connoisseur, but also have great investment potential.  A 1953 La Tâche was on average worth US$1,500, and today is worth US$3,000. In 2005, a magnum 1971 Romanée Conti on average went for US$12,000 in auctions, the price now exceeding US$34,000.

Probably no one would object that Bordeaux wines have great ageing potential; however, many people have the misconception that Burgundies don’t age well, and collectors in the Greater China region are no exception. This is not because Chinese wine lovers are biased towards Bordeaux; on the contrary, they love pairing fine Burgundy wines to Chinese cuisine. The problem is we don’t have that many opportunities to acquire well preserved older Burgundies, which might be the cause of some unpleasant tasting experience. For any fine wine, be it Bordeaux or Burgundy, a stable cellar and good provenance are prerequisites for great quality. Owing to the delicate nature of Burgundies, many connoisseurs demand even stricter storage conditions for these wines. I agree, and I think a bottle of 1971 Clos Vougeot would be a great choice with which to conclude today’s hard work!