Something exciting happening in our vineyards

By Deborah Waltonand Peter Morice

Over recent months we've been enthusiastically sampling the "new" varietals such as viognier, arneis and gruner veltliner as growers and winemakers look for more portfolio stars.

The majority of New Zealand's vineyard area is made up of just a handful of grape varieties – the big six are sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris, merlot and riesling. All these varieties are like familiar friends but many consider the time ripe for introducing new flavours and textures to our wine repertoire.

In a recent Australian publication the comment was made that there's good reason why some Australian wine growers are banking on gruner veltliner plantings to get them out of the doldrums – Australian wine drinkers are asking for white wines with texture (which a good gruner has aplenty).

While varietal flavour is still important and people want their sav blanc to taste recognisably like sav blanc with freshness and brightness as desirable attributes, they also want white wines to have texture, minerality and savouriness.

They want them to deliver complex palate satisfaction which is something the non-mainstream grapes like gruner can deliver very well.

Australia went through an export-inspired planting frenzy that now leaves growers and winemakers asking whether the old favourites are really the right varieties for their particular vineyard. They are also questioning the lack of viticultural diversity in a national vineyard dominated by 10 grape varieties and are trying to rectify the situation with a number of new varieties.

The same thinking is emerging here and the position of pinot gris in our top six varietals is testimony to that.

Viognier is marching along and now we have other varieties emerging – and maybe some of these will soon find their way into greater tracts of Marlborough vineyards that might be better suited to varieties other than overcropped sauvignon blanc. We'll be watching with interest as the wine industry changes in response to difficult times.

In Iceland cheers is said "Skal".

Nautilus Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 ($39)

Clear and brilliant dark ruby in the glass, this attractive wine has an enticing aroma that's sweet and pervasive. Plums, raspberries and delicate smoky oak combine with subtle hints of mushroom and almond.

The palate is juicy and succulent; some gentle acid supports sweet cherry/plum fruitiness while the silky tannins and integrated oak complement the violet, mocha, and almond flavours that stretch out to a long, lingering aftertaste.

Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Gris 2010 (about $20)

Soft, appealing notes of guava, fig and tropical fruitiness sit nicely alongside floral and mineral aromas.

The palate is a delightful combination of tingly acid, apple, guava and ripe pear flavours. A medium-bodied wine with a hint of sweetness that makes it very easy to drink, we think this example has charm and enough complexity to enjoy on its own or partner a wide range of foods.

Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hills Pinot Gris 2009 ($23.95)

Pale gold in the glass. The honeyed, syrupy aroma has lifted apricot and floral notes combined with a richer whiff of creamy caramel.

The palate was reminiscent of good chardonnay – ripe stone fruit, caramel and biscuit flavours team up with soft tingly acids and a silky texture.

The finish is spicy with some chalky minerality and gentle stone fruit flavour.

At 14.5 per cent alcohol this wine is a biggie but it's in perfect balance – well made!

Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Pinot Noir 2009 ($32.99)

Crimson with flashes of garnet, clear and brilliant in the glass. A smoky, lifted aroma of cherries, mint, spicy oak, liquorice and plums offset by a dollop of white pepper.

The palate rips right into the action – forget silky, ethereal, supple or subtle – here's a big, forthright red wine with drying tannins backed up by serious plum, cherry, tar and liquorice flavours.

It's hot and peppery – the white pepper comes through crystal clear, and the finish is in a flourish of plum, chocolate, mint and pepper. Grainy rather than silky, this is a really enjoyable wine, just not what we'd expect from pinot.

The wine's might is a result of really ripe fruit and correspondingly high alcohol – at 14.5 per cent.

Mitre Rocks Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008 ($41.95)

Another big wine at 14 per cent – there's a trend here, really ripe high quality fruit pushing up the alcohol level in 2010.

Garnet, clear and brilliant in the glass, this wine delivers smoky, savoury aromas – bacon fat, green herbs, peppery spice and old oak, then in come the rich ripe plum notes.

Tingly acids and firm tannins partner the incredibly ripe succulent fruitiness while well integrated smoke, mocha and thyme flavours persevere. The tannins become drying and dusty towards the finish.

A complex, well rounded and charming wine.

The screw cap closure made no difference to this wine's immediate drinkability – aged in barrels then presented ready to go. Well done.