In memory of UC Davis Vit & Enology graduate student Ilan Tokayer
So began the statement of purpose written by Ilan Tokayer as part of his application to the graduate program in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis. “Ambitious” is a perfect adjective to describe Ilan, a first year graduate student who tragically died on Thursday, March 3rd. For those of us reviewing applications, Ilan’s ambition was clear from the start. A joy of working in a well-known wine department is that it attracts such ambitious students—students who passionately pursue their coursework, students who strive to challenge their palates and, in the case of Ilan, students who share with us their hopes and dreams.
Ilan Tokayer came to our Department by way of Teaneck, New Jersey, a small town northwest of New York City. Ilan’s interest in wine began just after high school. While spending time in Israel Ilan began to learn about wine, tasting and sharing wines with families who invited him to their Sabbath meals and visiting wineries in Galilee. Clearly this experience made an impression on young Ilan. Upon his return, he decided to pursue a career in enology. Creating his own academic path at Yeshiva University, Ilan graduated in 2009 with a degree in English with a minor in Biology. Throughout his undergraduate degree Ilan also acquired winemaking experience, first at Ella Valley Vineyards in Israel and later at City Winery in Manhattan. Upon graduation from Yeshiva, Ilan worked at City Winery full time as an assistant winemaker and director of kosher winemaking. Ilan then furthered his winemaking experience last year by working at Villa Maria Estate in New Zealand.
Ilan joked that his was an unusual career path for an Orthodox Jewish kid from New Jersey. Regardless, in the Fall of 2010 Ilan entered the Robert Mondavi Institute of Wine and Food Science brimming with a passion for excellence—a passion, combined with Ilan’s unique history, that would make Robert Mondavi himself beam with pride. Ilan dove into his coursework, made wine in our new winery and excelled in his classes. Recently he initiated his dissertation research on flash détente with Professors Linda Bisson and Susan Ebeler. Ilan also shared his vision for the future. On walks back to the department, he discussed with Professor Roger Boulton his dream to establish a winery in Israel. It was obvious to all this was a young man of substance with the talent and tenacity to realize his vision.
For those of us who work in the realm of the wine, the seasonality of life is ever present. Grapes grow and mature, are harvested, crushed and fermented and the remarkable product of that process ages gracefully. Those of us who work with students witness a similar seasonality. Students arrive at UC Davis from many locales, tumble together into a mixture of coursework, thesis projects and tastings and emerge eager to become the “best damn winemaker in the world”.
Last Thursday Ilan’s path toward that goal was cut tragically short. The wine world should grieve the loss of such a promising winemaker. However we also grieve the loss of a student, colleague and friend.
Ilan, may you rest in peace.