Wines to warm the soul

By Susy Atkins 2011-3-2 17:23:40

Cold-weather casseroles cry out for a full-bodied red, says Susy Atkins.

Stuck indoors during the Big Freeze, I have turned to traditional comfort food, churning out slow-cooked casseroles, chunky sausages with swede-and-spud mash, and bubbling cheesy pasta bakes. It's hardly Heston Blumenthal and a delicate oyster foam, admittedly, but it is the kind of food many of us rely on to warm the soul in deep mid-winter.

What makes these dishes appealing is a glass or two of rich, generously proportioned red, the sort stoked with plenty of autumnal berries and spicy, peppery oak. (One should never drink feeble wine when it's -10°C outside, I feel.) These mainly come from warm climates – southern France, Spain, Australia and South Africa – and you can almost taste a hot sun in their ripe, plush, juicy depths.

European reds tend towards more savoury characteristics: leather and clove on the aroma; black pepper, cinnamon and a certain 'meatiness' on the palate. These go well with long-braised or slow-roasted red meats and game, also stews strewn with herbs.

The brighter primary fruit (cassis, plum and blackberry) of New World reds makes them a better choice with 'faster' winter food (chops, sausages and steaks). And chunky, robust southern Italian reds partner the pasta bakes and sauces well.

These full-bodied reds can be good value, too. In the dark days of late January, with last month's credit-card bill on the doormat, finding a relative bargain will only warm the heart further.

Extra Special Primitivo 2008, Italy (Asda, £6.98)

Burly, blackberry-packed southern Italian made from the primitivo grape, believed to be zinfandel's ancestor. Bring this out with your heartiest, meatiest pasta bakes

Domaine Combes 2009, Saint Chinian, France (Waitrose, £6.99)

Well-balanced southern French red with a rich core of red plum and hints of thyme and chocolate. An unoaked blend of grenache and syrah, it stands up just fine to a venison or beef casserole

Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa (Majestic, £10.99 or £8.99 when you buy two or more until 31 January)

Another beautifully crafted, ripe red from Andre van Rensburg of Vergelegen, this has juicy flavours of plum and redcurrant and a dash of wood spice from ageing in French oak casks

TIPPLE TIP serve them right...

'Make sure medium- and full-bodied reds are served at room temperature, as their tannins can taste chewy and dry when cold. Never put a red right by a radiator or fire; instead, warm up bottles gradually by bringing them into the kitchen for two or three hours before opening'

Susy Atkins

From www.telegraph.co.uk