New Hong Kong wine shop goes natural

Generally speaking, the Hong Kong wine market is dominated by overblown, overpriced big brand plonk. But Karim Hadjadj, a co-owner of La Cabane à Vin, a new shop and tasting spot, is betting that he can turn Hong Kongers on to “vins naturels,” the organic, biodynamic, minimally manipulated wines from small producers featured at many of the best wine bars and bistros in Paris and elsewhere.

Mr. Hadjadj, his wife, Sandrine, and friend Hippolyte Courty opened La Cabane (97 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; 852-6891-6971) in November as the retail arm of Au Naturel Ltd., their organic import company. Working the floor with them is Nicolas Ronceray, formerly of the beloved Paris wine bar Le Verre Volé, a pioneer of the natural wine scene.

The first thing Mr. Hadjadj tells customers — most of them natural wine neophytes — is that “it will be very different from what they have tasted before.” He estimated that he spends an average of 30 minutes explaining the winemakers’ philosophy, touching on “the concept of purity, of emotion, digestibility, and finally that we can drink without thinking of a hangover.”

The shop is in a nifty, renovated loft apartment off  Hollywood Road, with a glassed-in, climate-controlled cave in the back where cases from vin naturel stars like Dard et Ribot and Foillard are stacked. They have about 70 labels at the moment, all bought directly from winemakers in France, Spain, Greece, and Italy, plus a growing selection of charcuterie, spices and other groceries. Choosing what to stock is easy, said Mr. Hadjadj: “We only sell what we like.”

At the front of the shop is a sort of salon, with leather chairs and bookshelves, where organized and impromptu tastings are held. Recent events have featured Alsatian wines and artisanal ciders.

“People are very receptive,” Mr. Hadjadj said. “I guess they see that we are genuine, knowledgeable, and most of all passionate. People like passionate guys, especially in Hong Kong.”