In praise of riesling

It may not have been love at first sip, but Sam Kim now sings the praises of reisling.

It wasn’t love at first sip. Like many other acquired tastes, my love for riesling developed slowly. I love chardonnay, and I'm fascinated by Gewurztraminer, and at times there’s nothing better than a vibrant sauvignon blanc, and I will walk over broken glass to try an old Chenin Blanc. Yet, riesling has the exquisite charm and immaculate detail that no other wine can deliver.

Chances are you don't drink riesling. Your heart belongs to another grape. Even though some wine enthusiasts love the riesling's Audrey Hepburn-like beauty, and regard riesling as the 'Queen of Grapes', the grape has lost its fame and favour. There was a time when riesling was the height of fashion. Top German rieslings were some of the highly sought-after and most expensive wines in the world. That was over a hundred years ago, and riesling has been in exile since.

Wine writers and winemakers have been talking up Riesling: ‘Riesling revival is coming’, ‘Riesling renaissance is upon us’, we claimed. So is it really? No. Not even close.

Plantings of riesling in New Zealand accounted for 4 percent back in 2003. The vineyard areas of riesling have increased over the last eight years but at a slower pace than major grapes, now at just 3 percent of the national plantings. This lessened popularity hasn’t dampened the spirit of Riesling enthusiasts. And it was the unwavering loyalty that brought together riesling makers in Waipara to host an event called, In Praise of Reisling, held at the stunning Pegasus Bay winery.

It’s a day of celebrating and tasting of riesling, and taste you do of some of the finest German, French and Austrian rieslings as well as Waipara’s best. I manage to taste 119 rieslings that day. With any other variety, my palate would have been exhausted, but not with riesling. It remained remarkably fresh. Although I must admit a pint of pale ale tasted pretty good before dinner at the award winning Pegasus Bay winery restaurant.

Waipara also produces world class chardonnays and pinot noirs, as well as sublime Gewurztraminers and beautifully textured pinot gris. But riesling is one love they all share - from the pure and crisp dry style to the delicately perfumed ones with whispering sweetness, and to the unctuously rich beauties as sweet as honeyed toast. The top examples are engaging and deeply delicious with refinement and delicacy. They can age magnificently over a decade developing haunting aromas and sensuous flavours that seem to stretch into infinity. I am already converted but couldn’t help but feel the infectious enthusiasm of Waipara’s winegrowers for this grape of royal heritage.

Thank goodness my journey of discovery continues, as there are more riesling vineyards to explore, more growers to meet and many more wines to sip and ponder, while patiently waiting for the return of the queen.

There are so many to mention but these are just a few highlights.

Pegasus Bay Riesling 2008 ($30)

Powerful yet focused, this is a glorious expression of the variety showing ripe citrus and a hint of honey notes combined with a succulent palate. Drink now or keep for ten years.

Muddy Water Unplugged Riesling 2008 ($30)

Luscious but not too sweet with perfectly pitched acidity providing a refreshing mouthfeel. Irresistibly delicious and undeniably comforting.

Greystone Riesling 2010 ($27)

A super-star in the making, Greystone’s portfolio does not have a weakness. This Riesling is fragrant with floral and citrus notes followed by a beautifully framed palate.

Waipara Hills Riesling 2010 ($21)

Full of tasty flavours, this is a crowd pleaser yet classically expressed with apple and citrus flavours. The palate is succulent and flowing with a lingering dry finish.

The Crater Rim Waipara Riesling 2009 ($23)

This is pure and delicate on the nose with floral, citrus and stonefruit characters. It’s explosive on the palate with a lush mouthfeel and gentle sweetness, yet beautifully balanced by the acidity.

Sam Kim is a senior wine judge and author of Wine Orbit magazine (wineorbit.co.nz).